Captains Log: November 2019 (Tanzania)

Our Captains log is a capture of some of the random thoughts, frustrations and experiences we go through as we travel along. Hopefully it helps to show the good, bad and sometimes ugly side of full-time travel. These log entries cover the first month we spent in Tanzania. Apart from the log we also put together a travel diary together with pictures, the one for Tanzania will follow shortly.

30 October 

Today we found a small piece of paradise after a hot sweaty day yesterday, not all days are fab travelling but yesterday ranked up there as one of the worst for me.  It wasn’t a long day or involve a border crossing it was just hot and we lost out on a great overnight stay because l thought that another place would be better.  It was a bad gamble I took, what can I say win some loose some but ultimately try to learn from it.

2 November

Great day, got to watch the Rugby World Cup final in the a far from typical location (a schoolroom in the grounds of the campsite we staying at, FloJa Foundation), picture projected onto a white cloth screen.  Andreas the owner, went out of his way to ensure he had the right DStv channel for us and so with some friendly banter between 3 rugby fans (Stuart, 1 Aussie & 1 Pommie) together with the Dutch owner and Tania we got to cheer the Springboks on to a great win.  A quick dip in the lake at halftime was the perfect way to cool off.

3 November

Border day with the usual frustrations in sourcing local currency (the border ATM’s never work) and purchasing insurance, etc.  The long climb/drive from the border to Mbeya was very pretty and spectacular.

5 November

After a rest day, its time to start moving towards Dar es Salaam.  Once again a spectacular drive, at one point cresting at 2300m.  Had a bit of “sport” with local cops at one point, they zapped us speeding up out of a 50km/h zone roughly 100m before the sign but only stopped us 5km later and presented us with a picture on a cellphone, which started a long discussion and refusal to pay until Stuart saw the actual radar gun.  It took nearly 30min for that to arrive as the operator had to get a left on a motorbike taxi, which gave us plenty of time to observe the scam in progress.  Basically the locals when pulled over were doing some “cool drink money” payments, and after quietly filming this it gave Stuart the opportunity to negotiate hard. A further 30 minutes later we were back on the road with no fine paid and having seriously disrupted there sideline business for the last hour.

7 November

Another day of hectic Tanzania roads/drivers, a GPS planned 3 – 4 hours seems to always mean closer to an intense 6 hours o concentration.  Today we had 2 fuel tankers careering past us on a steep downhill pass through blind bends (VIDEO), thank goodness no one was coming up the pass at that point.

10 November

Yesterday we arrived at Firefly (Bagamoyo) and our first impressions were “we can stay here a while” due to it’s shabby chic and chilled vibe. The local mosque however chanted all night and we woke to rain and flies (due to local fish market), perhaps we won’t stay that long after all.

12 November

Turns out the all night chanting was for the prophets birthday and a one night thing only so we slept better the next few nights apart from waking early for the veryearly morning call for prayer.  A 3 hour round trip into the outskirts of Dar es Salaam for shopping means we are now well stock again and plan to move up the coast to Barrys Beach lodge which promises white sands and hopefully a long stop next to the ocean.

14 November

Yesterday was a day of frustration & disappointment!  Firstly got stopped again for speeding despite being supremely careful about the 50 zones but think I now know how they trick you into thinking the 50 zone no longer exists. Anyway after the receipt machine wouldn’t work and after turning down the offer of “them helping me out” I was let off with a warning (2 – 0 in the Stuart versus Tanzanian cops match so far). Secondly what we thought was going to be tar all the way ended with 90km of rough and slow dirt and so adding 2 hours to our journey time.  Thirdly when we arrived at the lodge, the sought after white sands were no longer as the big storms of a few days ago have washed in heaps of dead seaweed plus it was stinking hot with humidity off the charts.  On the plus side there is a swimming pool and the staff are super helpful.

15th November

It took a day to chill out from the drive and the heat. Lying on the lounges with the breeze of the ocean did help the situation that is until I walked into a palm tree exiting the campsite and landed on my ass, yay another bruise, scrapped knee and sore nose but the day had been good enough for it not to put a damper on us.

16 November

As the crow flies we only moved about 50km but it took about 2,5 hours due to the road conditions, a ferry crossing and then having to pull a broken down Land Cruiser off the ferry.  We should have moved to this new spot (Peponi) a day earlier, it looks and feels great.

20 November

Peponi has been just what the doctor ordered, it’s been easy to while away 5 days camped a few metres above the high tide mark under big trees and with a lovely pool and chill area to relax in.  If there were just waves to surf it would be perfect.

21 November

Grrr, a hard day driving in mud including rescuing a truck from the mud and then finding out the fees to traverse through Amani nature reserve are USD65 and not USD30. Tanzanian park fees are ridiculously expensive!!

23 November

After 24 hours of hard rain, I wasn’t looking forward to the descent from Amani but it turned out okay.  The drive up into the Usambari West mountains was spectacular and thankfully tar most of the way and now we are camped in a hotel parking lot but only 2 metres from our backdoor is the cliff and spectacular views to the Maasai plains when the clouds clear.

25 November

Did a great little walk yesterday with a local guide and then on our own today around Irente and though the local villages and farming areas.  Was very impressed with how well looked after the land is and little plantations.  Then swapped our parking lot site for the Irente farm camping spot which is nice and peaceful in the forest, just no view.

26 November 

Not a good day, we moved to Moshi just below Mount Kilimanjaro.  The campsite we stopped at had good reviews on iOverlander and when we got there we were greeted at the gate by a young man who took us around the property, showed us the ablutions, arranged for the vehicle gate to be opened so we could setup, etc.  At no time did we have any reason to believe he did not belong especially as he chatted freely with others on the property.    iOverlander reviews indicated the price to be USD10pppn and after having setup the young man arrived and told us the price was now USD15pppn, Stuart argued a bit with him about this but in the end as we were tired and setup we paid. Only 10minutes later did the older caretaker arrive with a book to register in and a receipt for USD10pppn, naturally a big argument then ensued with Stuart demanding the overpaid amount back and in which the manager/owner claimed they did not know who the youngster was.  Eventually we got the official rate refunded and left to camp in the back of a hotel parking lot. Grrrrr!

28 November

Having debated if it was worth heading further west before going up to Kenya, very glad we did head west as we have ended up in a superb campsite, possibly the best one since leaving SA (Migombani).  It has lovely lawns, modern ablutions and a pool overlooking Lake Manyara.  We are really close to Ngorongoro Reserve but sadly won’t be going there due to the exorbitant fees (USD280 per night for 2 persons camping in you own vehicle plus an additional USD300 if you want to drive down into the crater)

30 November

Migombani camp has been great, a variety of overlanders (British, Canadian, Dutch, Danish & German) plus superb facilities.  Had loads of rain today but dried out this afternoon and it is now time to move on.  Tomorrow hopefully we will be in