Captain(s) Log: December 2019

In contrast to the  travel diary our Captains log is a capture of some of the random thoughts, emotions frustrations and experiences we go through as we travel along. Hopefully it helps to show the good, bad and sometimes ugly side of full-time travel. This captains log covers December 2019 while we were firstly in Kenya and then our first days in Uganda

1 December

Border crossing day so the usual higher stressful levels associated with that combined with exhaustion at the end of the day.  Small melt down in the team as we tried to find a dry spot to park at Jungle Junction, most of the campsite is a swamp currently due to the unseasonably heavy rains.  The rains have so far resulted in over a hundred deaths and the displacement of hundreds of thousands.

2 December

Managed to get Mr J serviced this afternoon at the Jungle Junction campsite.  Overall all good and no issues.

3 December

Ventured out to the nearest mall and to some shopping done and was so nice to sit down for a simple lunch in a modern restaurant.  On our way out spotted an insurance broker so stopped to find out if our COMESA insurance bought when entering Tanzania a month ago in fact was valid as we have lingering concerns for a while, turns out it was not so we got ripped off back then of USD90!

5 December

Even though we are having loads of rain, Mr Jones setup has been great and we stay mostly dry so long as we wear gumboots.   Been great to enjoy the lounge at Jungle Junction, with fireplace, and catchup on various tasks.  Free fast WiFi is the BEST!

7 December

Our first night out of Mr Jones in approx 2 months and only the second in 4 months.  Aaah the conveniences of an on-suite bathroom.  Fast WiFi and the free use of washing machine allowed us to get all chores done too.

10 December

Packing up in Naivasha after a couple of cold & rainy days, with a nearly flat fridge battery, made for a grumpy Stuart.

12 December

Dreaming of being involved in a go-kart race only to wake to the sound of lawnmowers, why does the campsite need to mow the lawn from 10pm to 3am??.  Somehow still slept reasonably well.

14 December

Took our Bilharzia tablets last night and feeling quite “out of sorts” today.  We had been warned that this could happen, guess it’s better than getting bilharzia.

15 December

A day of contrasting emotions! The drive was spectacular crossing two mountain ranges (2000m and 2700m respectively) and through valley floors. A bit of stress as one river was in flood but thankfully some locals could show us a way around and then the higher pass had many mudslides but there was always a way through. Just as we joined the tar a taxi rolled coming towards us, thankfully no major injuries but so sad to see how many smart SUV’s just drove past while we attempted to administer some basic first aid. We are both a tad shattered this evening.

16 December

Plans are meant to be changed, our intention was to cross into Uganda today but while doing some grocery shopping in Eldoret where approached by a lady asking if we belonged to the Landy outside.  Turns out she lives on a farm 20km outside town and invited us around for the night.   The Krugers are 4th generation South African/Kenyan farmers.

18 December

It was hard to tear ourselves away from the Krugers hospitality but as we have started to pose some deadlines on ourselves it was time to move.  Excluding border crossing time, the drive to Jinja in Uganda was meant to be 3,5hours per the GPS, so maybe 5,5hours with a border crossing.  It turned out to be closer to 7,5hours! Thankfully the Haven campsite has a stunning veranda overlooking some Nile rapids and we enjoyed a couple of beers with fellow travellers before working about opening Mr Jones.   Stuart also had his first run-in with Ugandan cops today, looks like we will have to super vigilant as in Tanzania, they were clearly up to no good and after some time he walked away without paying anything.

20 December

The last couple of days we have had a lovely family camped next to us, Paul, Anna and there two children. It made us realize that the one thing we have been missing throughout the trip but couldn’t quite put our finger on was interaction with like minded and educated local citizens of the countries we have passed through.  Up until now almost all our interactions have either been with fellow travellers (limited due the relatively few on the road) or jaded expats running lodges.

23 December

Up at dawn to “commute” into Kampala on a mission to get Gorilla permits, the 2,5 hour drive in was not too bad.  Due to system issues and volume of people it took 3 hours to get the permits but the staff were so friendly and we even got surprise cake and a cooldrink when the Executive Director and his entourage popped into the office to wish staff and guests Merry Christmas. Traffic leaving Kampala was crazy!

25 December

A super relaxed but very nice Christmas Day.  Woken up by horrific thunderstorm with super close lighting strikes (later found out it took out the lodge solar system) and sleeping high in Mr Jones with his roof sticking into the sky does not make one feel secure.  Spent the morning on video calls chatting to family scattered around the world and the afternoon relaxing. A nice buffet dinner and some live music rounded off the day perfectly.

26 December

Woke up to rain again and packed up wet again, headed out back in the Kenya tborder direction. Drove into Sipi Falls area and immediately you realize that you are in a tourist spot with guides offering their services to walk you to the waterfall for $15, eish that is an expensive walk. Having come from a super camping spot the VERY basic facilities are a hard reality.

27 December

Drove into the mountains in the hope of going for a bit of a birdwatching walk but sadly they are more geared to do multi day hikes and we don’t have the gear and Tania doesn’t have the stamina for it. Yet another storm yet another wet day, it is the end of December in Africa and I have worn my down jacket more often then I have in winter.

28 December

After a horrendous drive out of the now very wet and slippery road we headed down the mountain in search of a new campsite below the Sisiya falls. Stunning visual of the falls but ablutions still not cool, day 3 of wet wipe showers.

29 December 

Headed back to Jinja and a HOT shower. Camped at a new overland spot very pretty with all the Overlanding requirements of a huge banda, own kitchen area, nice restaurant and stunning ablutions which means tomorrow is spa day for Mr Jones and ourselves. Sadly not much of a view to the falls on the Nile river which are just below the restaurant.

31 December

Both super grumpy this afternoon/evening as we for the first time in ages we have tried to plan out the next 2 weeks, for some reason it just irritated us.  BUT then enjoyed a wonderful pork roast which we had brought from SA for Xmas and not used, afterwards went down to the bar and joined an eclectic bunch of Australian, Italians, Kenyans Russian, Ugandan, Zambian.  Both tourists and the tour operators/drivers for some of the large overland trucks.  Turned into a wonderful New Years Eve.