3 October: We have had a few forced chill days while we wait for our awning cover to be prepared but it’s been really good. Got some jobs done, cleaned Mr J, caught up on some admin but not all. And this afternoon got our awning back with a new zip an all the stitching repaired.
4 October: Heading towards Foz do Igauzu, a long day in the car and thought we had pushed it too far when turned down a “truck stop” location at 2pm and the next one was 2,5hours away. Took strain with Mr. J for those last 2 hours as his temp gauge is temperamental and missing the digital one which got damaged in the fire. In the end glad we pushed on though as it means 2 hours less tomorrow and while we are in a busy spot it feels better.
6 October: It’s been an interesting couple of days at a backpacker’s hostel (Tetris Container) in Foz do Igaucu, met many people most of whom are just on short backpacking trips (although none seem to own a backpack but rather a wheelie suitcase – youth of today!!!) but also got to engage with a few that are long term travellers with similar mindsets to ourselves. Only downside to the hostel was the youngster’s come and go at all hours and are rather noisy, plus we are parked in what is basically the service driveway so not much privacy and many disturbances.
7 October: With a few days of no rain forecast we decided to move from the hostel and hopefully find something closer to the falls. We also swung past an auto electrician to see if we could get to the bottom of what Stuart suspects to be an earth issue on our instrument cluster (the temp gauge is being very erratic). The shop turned out to be a nice small one with a character for a boss and he immediately decided it was the earth straps on the chassis, a few hours later and of course a little poorer we were on the way and so far the gauge looks much better. Nonetheless we have asked Clecio to order a supplementary gauge which will hopefully provide a more accurate measurement.
8 October: On the tourist “shuffle” today as we went to see the Igaucu Cataratas, long lines for tickets, bus ride, etc and then many many people all trying to take the same picture. Surprisingly we enjoyed ourselves but predictably were more fascinated by the small sights, creatures and people watching. The falls are absolutely huge and majestic but ultimately, we think our experience at Ruacana in Namibia back in 2020 was more awe inspiring.
10 October: Super long day as we traversed town to collect parcels, do some shopping, do laundry, visit some auto pecas (spares shops) to find a relay for the one art we bought and then go back across town to collect the last parcel. Camped back at Tetris Container hostel even though we didn’t really enjoy it last time but at least you camp on concrete which means no mud in all this rain. Camped outside this time and it was much better, more privacy and quieter at night.
11 October: A very successful day as we visited a “tornearia” (turning shop) and with the use of google translate had a new thermostat housing lug made which could take the thermometer probe. I turned out to be a small sho with really friendly owner/operater, then it was back to Tetris to install the temp probe and the do the electrical wiring for the coolant level sensor. Nearly had disaster as I sheared the bolt which clamps the probe in place but fortunately this was once it was in place, so no ideal but will only be an issue (possibly) when removing.
12 October: Time to leave Brazil. Border crossing was pretty painless although Brazilian aduana lady didn’t seem to know what to do with TIP but we have a written copy that it was cancelled. Getting a SIM and changing a wad of USD once in Argentina was pretty painless, although it did take a few stops thereafter to find a place we could load cash onto the SIM. Now stopped at a public park next to a dam about an hour inside Argentina, it is quite a pretty spot and as a bonus not only is it free but it comes with electricity. Ablutions are probably dodgy but as we have our own setup these days we ain’t too concerned.
13 October: Our second day and our second free camp, at a public park on the Rio Parana. Although very similar to last night we both felt a bit unsettled initially but still had a very quiet night. Even though we have done relatively small mileages or just errands it’s been a number of days of no down time so have decided tomorrow to look for a campsite where we can have a rest day.
15 October: A day and a half of much needed rest, campsite is huge with loads of bird life and yesterday we had all to ourselves. Unfortunately, today a couple pulled in, parked relatively close to us and proceeded to blast music (typical South American) from their car, fortunately they went out for lunch and we had a nice afternoon. Haven’t slept as well as we would like because there is a massive dredger in the river which runs 24/7 and you can hear it at night plus last night there was lots of loud music somewhere nearby until gone 2am.
16 October: Took a detour into Parque National Ibera, which we knew very little about. Turns out it is one on Argentina largest national parks. The campsite is a huge lush green grass oasis (toilets but no electricity) which is for free (entry to park was free too). After lunch 2 Germans (Michael & Marion) arrived in their Land Cruiser, they have been in South America 7 weeks but like us have no time frames, so spent the rest of the afternoon chatting. All round a great day and think we will stay another day just to soak up the peace and quiet.
17 October: A really great day, took the little canoe trip at end of road in the park. It wasn’t a very long trip but saw lots on the river and it only cost ZAR55 per person. Afterwards we talk a walk down one of the short trails and practically bumped into a male marsh deer, such a close and awesome encounter – the shutter was just clicking on our cameras. Camp was super tranquil with us being the only one there at night.
19 October: A long full day of driving as we head down the Parana river and then eventually west towards Cordoba. Evening turned into an absolute hoot as two Brazilian truck drivers pulled into the gas station and come over to chat, such characters, so loud and full of life – reminding us of how warm and friendly the Brazilians are.
20 October: A relatively short day across to Cordoba with a stop for shopping and then onwards to a small-town half an hour further. Only the second time we have paid for camping (only ZAR120 for both of us) so far in Argentina and this was well worth it as we had the best hot showers so far in 7 months – good water pressure, loads of hot water and no suicide shower setup.
21 October: Even shorter day today as we climbed up into the mountains, with a few stops to observe the condors, man they are big. Stopped at Parque National Quebrada de Condorita, did a lovely short walk after lunch and then are camping in the parking area for a hiking trail. No facilities but expecting 1million star quality tonight as we are the only ones here. It could be chilly though as we are at 1800m asl compared to most of the last months at 100m or less.
22 October: Last night was coldest night in South America so far, 6deg C, but awesome. Sadly, no million stars though as the clouds rolled in early and we woke to lots of mist. After a relatively leisurely start, drove the rest of the spectacular Ruta 34 as it wound its way across the plateau past amazing rock formations and canyons and then a long drop down to the town of Mina Clavero were we stopped for some empanadas for lunch. The road dropping off the mountain was spectacular like the road between Strand and Gordons bay in ZA just it dropped from 2000m to 1000m, and then the drive along Ruta 14 as it wound its way along the base of the mountain through many “european like villages” was equally spectacular. Finished the afternoon crossing hot scrubland to Parque Sierra de las Quijadas and another free camp – just wished we had refilled our “daily use” water tank from the river before leaving this morning as it is super dry here and no water available.
25 October: Surprisingly we have travelled far and quite fast since entering Argentina (2000+km) and with so much changing scenery it felt quite easy but has left us a bit tired, so yesterday was a rest day interspersed with cleaning and doing admin jobs. Today was another semi-rest day although Stuart did rotate Mr J tyres.
27 October: Devon’s birthday and so we decided today was the day to do some wine tasting in honour of his birthday. Had a lovely mini lunch and tasting but difficult to fully enjoy when you know you have a drive across town to get back to camp.
29 October: our parking lot campsite was not very restful unfortunately due to party goers nearby that partied until sunrise – we have slept much better in theoretically noisy truck stops! On the positive side we had a lovely breakfast out before heading south of town to a wine region and having an even better lunch with unlimited wine. Something that stands out strongly is the difference in food culture between Argentina and Brazil, the variety and sophistication of foods and flavors is very noticeable.
30 October: Another very disturbed sleep last night, thanks to bratty teenagers in the camp who clearly had every intention of partying through the night, they didn’t even have tents. Stuart eventually lost it with them around 1am and an hour or so later they dispersed/moved somewhere else. Today has been bitterly cold, 10deg max and breezy. On days like this living in Mr J is hard and such a contrast to the fantastic day yesterday (both weather and living).
31 October: While chilling at the car this morning and thinking we would stay another day and recover from all the “parties” a work crew come past spraying chemicals into the trees and we discovered the campsite is actually closed today, so we hastily packed up and left. As we drove out of town we realised why it had been so cold, snow had fallen on the mountains and down to quite a low altitude, a truly pretty sight across the vineyards.