Our Captains log is a capture of some of the random thoughts, frustrations and experiences we go through as we travel along. This months version certainly has plenty of ups and downs as we ticked off big mileage to escape the rains. These log entries cover our very quick jaunt through Zambia and then some of our time in Namibia.
1 February
A day of staring 5m to 200m ahead, dodging potholes & passing trucks with 1/2 m spare between us while balancing Mr J tyres on the edge of the squiggly road edge. B@£* tired! Uuurgh Zambia!
2 February
For f@!ks sake. While having a soak in the natural hot springs this morning before hitting the road, we heard a tree crashing down nearby. When we got back to Mr Jones it had fallen next to and partially on him.
5 February
The joy of simple things! Finding a Shoprite that has wine (still box though) and all other items at close to South Africa prices (first time in 6months) and tonight having a shower with decent lighting, enough space to change and plenty hot water (a rarity the last couple of weeks).
9 February
While not ideal as there is not much to do here and it has rained almost constantly, a couple of forced down days while we wait out the weekend to visit a mechanic has been really good for us. Feeling nice and relaxed.
10 February
Rain all night and then packing up in the mud has us both feeling grumpy this morning. Also for some strange reason we don’t have too much confidence in the mechanic even though he is highly recommended which leaves us anxious about that too. In the end he was in fact great.
11 February
In Namibia and we have sunshine, could this be the end of our “load shedding”? So glad we dashed westwards yesterday after a brief hospital trip for Mr J.
Aaah the joys of proper campsites! 2 weeks ago we were paying the same to camp on a pile of rubble in the backyard of a hotel, today we have our own ablutions, wash-up area, grass and a private viewing deck over the Popa falls on the Kavango river.
15 February
Continually confused over what time it is the last few days?? As we are on the border with Angola the phones are constantly changing time zones, often making us think it is an hour earlier than it actually is. We assume the phones GPS keeps confusing which country we are in…
17 February
The long days and often not great roads of the last month are taking it’s toll, both been snappy at each other, which we never are so a sure sign down time is needed! Crazy to think 1 month ago we were tracking gorillas and now we are well into Namibia. Today’s camp on edge of Etosha feels good and while a little pricey looks like it will keep us for a few days and give us that needed rest.
18 February
A lovely relaxed day, spent lounging by the pool reading and catching up on blog etc. Glad we stopped here.
19 February
So annoyed and frustrated! We left our frozen red meat in the care of the lodge due to the foot & mouth disease controls Etosha has in place and THEY PUT IT IN THE FRIDGE. So when we got back after the day in the park, 2 weeks of meals had defrosted. GRRRR!
20 February
Marathon cooking session of mince to save the defrosted meat, followed by some great chilli con carne. All done while riding out a massive thunderstorm sitting inside Mr J, thank goodness once again for the Icarus roof conversion.
23 February
Very relieved! Been nursing a wonky propshaft with a daily greasing schedule for the last 2000km, hopefully can get it fixed/a new one now that we have made it to Windhoek.
24 February
Productive day, propshaft sorted, first haircuts in many months and some shopping done.
26 February
Pleasantly surprised by Swakopmund, had a lovely lunch on promenade followed by walk and sundowners on the Tiger reef deck
28 February
Dodged a bullet this morning! While disconnecting the grey water bucket, noticed a space in the bushes for the rear lower suspension link. The nut had come seriously loose and was almost off – must be due to all the corrugations last few days and with all the driving I (Stuart) been a bit lazy last few days in checking Mr J over.
As you will have read in our Rwanda travel diary the entry into Tanzania was not without it’s issues and our second impressions (because this is our 2nd time into Tanzania) were disappointingly worst than the first. The couldn’t care less attitude of the Tanzanian customs officials while we waited for the official to come back from lunch so that we could pay our “road tax” were immediately followed by terrible roads. As one user on iOverlander describes them: “potholes resemble bomb craters with extremely steep sides. Trucks bounce along with cabs swaying and oscillating like a fairground ride, definitely not for the faint hearted..”
Within the first couple of kilometres we saw two recent truck accidents/wrecks and a few kilometres later come to a grinding halt as the road crossed a small hill and held a huge truck jam. Initially we joined the queue but after realising that we had more chance of squeezing through than the trucks we inched our way forward past the first 20 trucks until we got to the real jam which was 4 trucks wide and no way around. It is amazing to watch how what at first appears to be total chaos and with no solution in sight slowly starts to take shape as one or two drivers begin to boss the rest around, eventually a couple of trucks inched their way past us down the hill and even though at only 2km/h they were still often locking up brakes and sliding past, then we would move upwards 50m or so and wait for the cycle to repeat.
A couple of hour later we were clear and moving freely or at least as freely as the “bomb like craters” would allow. As darkness approached we were left with two options, either bush camp or stop at the only lodge marked on iOverlander. Bush camping on the side of the road in this part of the world is not appealing so we opted for the Medy One hotel, located in a little cross roads village. Finding it was an adventure down tiny little streets crowded with informal vendors and once the gps showed us we were on top of it but still could not see anything, Stuart opted for walking to find it. While it was nothing special it was clean and secure even if the decor left a lasting impression – think gold curtains, pink mosquito net and a multi coloured bed spread. We made supper in the parking lot, 5 metres from the open air bar and then retired to our room.
Another day of not great roads followed as we headed westwards towards Lake Tanganika and Jacobsen Beach campsite. Jacobsens is a little piece of paradise but unfortunately our hopes of an extended and relaxing stay were dashed when there was no power point at the campsite and the days were overcast meaning our solar panel could not keep the fridge auxiliary battery fully charged. So after 2 nights we needed to move on.
Jacobsens beach, Lake Tanganyika
Ideally we would have moved a few hundred kilometres down the lake to Lake Shore lodge as it was one of the few “must do” destinations we had in mind for this trip. It looks like a little bit of paradise and we thought we could down tools for at least a week, pump the SUP up and generally enjoy lake life. Sadly we learnt that they were closed until 15 February which meant that there was nothing left for us in Tanzania and with no sign of the rainy season abating the decision was made to head South for Zambia as quickly as possible.
Tanzania was however determined to not let us go that easily, the road from Kigoma (Jacobsens beach) while initially beautiful quickly turned into a slippery muddy mess thanks to the recent rains and once again we were confronted with a big truck and bus traffic jam. After sitting for a couple of hours while a bus which had slid sideways and blocked the road was cleared (by the passengers) we followed a couple of other local 4x4s through the narrow gap only to be stopped a few hundred metres further by another blockage. Over the next couple of hours we made slow but steady progress through the blockage. The blockage probably spread over 5km and 100’s of trucks and busses, so as we drove away we felt very sorry for all the passengers who would be spending at least one long night marooned there. It is amazing how things can change though, as we learnt from fellow traveller’s who come through a couple of days later that there was no sign of the chaos and it was an easy drive, goes to show what some heavy rain can do.
Kindle time while waiting out mud traffic jamsNo tilt on the camera, Mr J is leant up against the mud wall on the side
After a long hard day we stopped in Mpanda to fill up with fuel and draw some money. While modern technology and ATM’s make life a lot easier these days, it is still not without it it’s stresses as often the ATM will appear to approve your transaction and then reject it. At least once a month these days we have an “approved” and then reversed transactions on our accounts. On this day however nothing seemed to happen and after two minutes of waiting a small amount of panic ensued as Tania thought the machine had eaten her card! Thankfully after another minute or so the machine spat the card out, so off we drove to try and find another ATM which might co-operate.
In Africa we try and stick to one hard rule – “Don’t drive at night”. In 6 months we have only broken that once, when entering Malawi from Mozambique after another epic day , but after the days delays we found ourselves chasing the setting sun and did eventually pull into our campsite on the outskirts of Katavi National Park a few minutes after dark.
Hippo Camp, while very basic, was a pleasant end to an exhausting day. The caretaker immediately set about lighting the donkey boiler so we could have a hot shower and so after a simple supper, we had a lovely hot shower and fell asleep to the sound of hippos grunting in the nearby river.
Apart from a dirt section through the park, thankfully from here on the road become normal smooth tar and so over the next couple of days we managed to tick off some big mileage to the Zambian border, although we did not dodge another hotel parking lot camping experience.
Bacyard camping at a hotel / lodge. Our last stop before Zambia
The Nakonde border between Tanzania and Zambia is meant to be a one-stop border post but couldn’t be anything further from the truth. By now we have crossed a few border posts and the one thing we always refuse to use is a runner/tout. This time however that was not possible, as we had driven past the Tanzanian customs office simply because it was outside the border zone with no signage other than “staff parking”. This meant we had to walk back to it in an attempt to get the Carnet stamped but as they couldn’t now inspect Mr Jones it was an “issue”, score one for our self-appointed tout who resolved the issue. Back at the “one-stop” offices immigration/emigration was relatively easy and in the some place but then none of the counters for paying road tax were manned so it was off upstairs to a very crowded office where our “self-appointed tout” jumped the lines to get that sorted. Through the the back corridors we went to another office so that we could pay carbon tax, but as they were offline a few more closed offices followed as the tout looked for a solution. It was at this point that Stuart realised that the “tout” was indispensable. The final step in the fantasy “one-stop” border post was we had to physically exit the border area to visit Zambia customs and get our Carnet stamped. It took about 2 hours with the tout and would have probably taken 6+ on our own! When will countries realise that borders are essential for trade and make lasting first impressions for tourists of the country.
Everything we had read of the next 300 – 400km of roads inside Zambia was horror stories but the first 60km after the border while by no means great were not too bad and we covered the distance in just over an hour before pulling off for the night at Kings Highway rest camp.
Day two in Zambia did however deliver the promised bad roads together with a multitude of stupid checkpoints. Invariably the police checkpoint would be just before a bad section of road and of course they would always ask to see our receipt for road tax, the irony was not lost on us but most certainly on them… We did hopefully restock a good dose of Karma by stopping and helping, in the pouring rain, a stranded car transporter who had two flat tyres on the Gelandwagen V8 TriTurbo he was driving. He was transferring the vehicle from Dar es Salaam to the DRC, a journey which would take him 8 days and for which he would earn the princely sum of USD300.
About to get soaked to the coreStuart is out there holding an umbrella 🙂
Climbing back into Mr Jones, drenched to the core, it was another reminder of the irony of Africa: on the ground is a poor soul doing his best to make a living and earning a basic wage while entrusted with a very valuable asset whereas the recipient is no doubt floating in cash from shady deals (of some sort or other) and mainly focused on image (cause why else would you order such a car with low profile tyres for a country like the DRC) rather than creating long term wealth or a sustainable environment.
During the course of the days driving we come to the conclusion that for a road to count as potholed in north western Zambia it must be able to at least absorb two wheels at a time and be as deep as half the tyre otherwise it is just a good smooth tar road with a few irritating holes.
Kapisha Hot Springs was a pleasant surprise after another long day on the road, it was just such a pity the camping is ridiculously priced otherwise we would have definitely downed tools for a couple of days. Nonetheless we thoroughly enjoyed our soak in the hot water before bed and again the following morning.
While soaking away our aches and pains in the morning we heard a tree come crashing down not too far away but didn’t think anything more of it, only to find when we got back to Mr Jones that in fact it had fallen right next to and partly on to Mr Jones. We did however get lucky in that the only damage to Mr Jones was a slightly dented bonnet which a day later we mostly panel beaten out.
Despite the soaks in the hot water spring we were still feeling a bit battered and travel weary so decided to do a short hop to Bayama Lodge, where we hoped to take a rest day. Bayama while not spectacular in terms of facilities was a welcome rest stop, firstly cause they had nice food at good prices, then as an overlander you only pay for the first nights camping and thereafter stay for free. Stuart was also able to borrow a drill from the owner and so pop rivet back one of the panels we damaged on the muddy Tanzania roads as well as remove the Fubared side step and generally give Mr J a good going over. In addition we removed the bonnet and panelbeated out some of the dents from our fallen tree incident.
As we continued our journey south towards the Lusaka the road thankfully improved but the police checkpoints did not decrease, blowing our earlier theory that bad roads followed any such checkpoint. The main focus of these later checkpoints seems to be checking to see if your hazard lights are working, we very quickly got to recognise when a checkpoint was approaching as all the cars/trucks coming towards you and in front would have their hazards on. Quite often if you approach the officer with yours working, he/she waves you through but if you don’t have them on they will for sure stop you and walk around the car making sure all 4 are flashing. Bizarre!!
Sometimes the simple things in life can make such a difference, like reasonably priced box wine and other goodies. All who visited us in joburg and hopefully enjoyed a lunch or evening on our deck will know we enjoyed nice wine and had a reasonably well stocked wine rack. Simple economics have however exposed us to the “joys” of box wine on this trip and we have even become connoisseurs of it, for instance we can reliably inform you that Overmeer Red pairs very well with curry. Having said this even box wine has been expensive since Mozambique and so finding almost normal ZA priced boxes at a Shoprite just north of Lusaka totally made our day. Before anyone gets too concerned we didn’t only buy box wine, other essentials were also stocked up on.
The rainy season continued to follow us as we left Lusaka and headed for Livingstone with torrential downpours for much of the drive, when it wasn’t rainy and the road allowed us to get a little speed Mr Jones started to shudder anywhere around 90km/h which was a little worrying.
Having experienced similar in Rwanda our initial diagnosis was a worn UJ on the front prop shaft and perhaps also an issue with the steering joints. Stuart was also worried about the water pump which seemed to have an annoying squeak. As Livingstone has a very well recognised Land Rover mechanic (Foleys) we stopped by to see if they could help but they could only see us on Monday so we settled in for the weekend.
The weekend brought LOTS AND LOTS OF rain, which at one point forced us to move camping spots and meant there was not much we could do in terms of activities but despite this, the forced couple of days rest was just what the doctor ordered. Over the last 10 days we had clocked more than 3000km’s and none of them on good roads so we were naturally rather tired.
Our campsite after relocation
On the Friday, Foleys had told us to come around at 10:00 on the Monday morning as they probably wouldn’t be finished a job they were busy with until then but being anxious to get the show on the road and being wary of “africa time” we pitched up at 8:30. Of course they were still busy with the vehicle from Friday and reminded us they were expecting us at 10, we left doubtful that they would in fact be ready but lo and behold when we returned at 9:55 the wheel nuts were being tightened and Mr Jones was being looked at only a few minutes later.
One hour later a quick but thorough check of Mr Jones was complete, with some items to watch but nothing which should stop us for now. As the border with Namibia appeared to be reachable by 3pm and nothing more to hold us in Zambia, it was an easy decision to hit the road.
Zambia however was not finished with us, as we headed west and as soon as we past the turn-off to the Botswana border post (Kazungula) the road deteriorated into a potholed mess, pretty much the some kind of mess that welcomed us a few days earlier on our entry from Tanzania. With a healthy set of dodgem driving and the use of the track running next to the roa, we covered the last 150km in reasonable time and did in fact reach the border post by 4pm and a really simple entry into Namibia at Katima Mulilo.
Our traverse of Western Tanzania and Zambia is certainly not the way we like to travel (sticking to the main road and ticking off kilometres) but the weather and many places being closed or inaccessible was not conducive to slow travel sadly.
Rwanda you blew our socks off! Although we only spent 10 days in Rwanda it currently ranks as our favorite country on this journey (after Mozambique for which we just have a soft spot). Every hour of every single day something impressed us, whether it be the proud and functioning civil society; the communities caring for each other; Happy children running with a bounce in their step, How random adults will help small little children (dressed in neat school uniforms) to cross the road; Adults moving about with vigor, Pretty gardens everywhere; Zero litter or even leaves in gutters, Smooth roads with fresh paint markings throughout. We could go on and on but really it has to be seen to be appreciated.
Our border crossing at Cyanika was perhaps even easier than the one from Tanzania to Kenya a couple of months ago and already on the Uganda side we got a taste of what to expect, money touts who politely asked if we needed money and didn’t hassle us when we said no but rather helped us navigate the various buildings you are required to visit in order to cancel the Carnet and get stamped out. Once through the Uganda side you need to remember to cross over the road as Rwanda is a Right Hand Drive country.
Rwanda is a land of curves and passes which naturally means stunning scenery but also slow driving and so the 120km’s to Kigali took quite sometime but we weren’t complaining as we marvelled at the scenery or how in the middle of nowhere there would be somebody tidying up a little section of the road. We probably drove over 5 -6 mountain passes and on each one we saw small pelotons of cyclists out training, we doubt it will be long until Rwanda has a cyclist challenging for the polka dot jersey in the Tour de France.
Wonderfully clean and well mantained roads
Another sign that the country is more advanced was upon entering Kigali and noticing how all the BodoBoda riders have helmets on, including their passengers, that and the fact that the traffic lights not only work but have count down timers on them. The traffic however is still pretty chaotic which combined with driving on the “wrong side” of the road means you need to be super vigilant. One of Stuart’s ex-colleagues (Dion Thompson) had kindly invited us to stay with him so we quickly stopped at his house and loaded up the washing machine before heading out to find a supermarket, bank and place to obtain a local SIM card.
Over the next 4 days, courtesy of Dions wonderful hospitality we got to see how vibrant, modern and metropolitan Kigali is. This is something we would have no doubt missed out on if just on our own. Of course no visit to Rwanda is complete without visiting the various genocide museums and so while Dion was at work we took ourselves off to the Genocide Memorial monument. The tour makes for a very emotional and quite draining 4hours. It is absolutely horrific to see the atrocities and hatred mankind is capable of and how the world pretty much looked the other way while it took place but then on the other hand it is amazing to witness how the country and people have rebuilt themselves over the last 25 years and in fact overtaken all of their neighbors in terms of development.
Perhaps due to a lack of planning (or because it doesn’t really matter whether you have carefully plotted a route or not when traveling like this) upon leaving Dion we ended up driving back over the some mountain passes we had crossed on our way in. Our destination was Red Rocks campsite on the way to Gisenyi, which one review in iOverlander describes it as “the most backpackeresque place we have been to in Africa. It ticks all the boxes with graffiti, guests with dreadlocks and weed smoke”, as well as that they support the local arts community and have a small recording studio on site. So we were expecting something different but it exceeded our expectations as Mr Jones got a starring role in a music video shoot. #MrJonesFanClub
When we arrived a crew was busy setting up to film a love song by a Rwandan artist called Edouce Softman, after shooting the first scene the videographer come over too admire Mr Jones and to ask if we would mind if they took a few shots with him as the background. Who are we to say No! Over the next 4 hours they shot various scenes and now we are holding thumbs to see if Mr Jones makes the final cut for his song “Ni Wowe”.
After the excitement of the film shoot a few days of relaxation on the shores of Lake Kivu was called for. Lake Kivu as with many of the other Rift Valley lakes is just huge, covering over 2700 square kilometres and being more then 450m deep. Across it’s waters is the Democratic Republic of Congo which is a stark reminder of how one country can rise up in 25 years and another can just slip further into darkness.
The drive around the lake and down to the camping areas we stayed at once again provided many slack jawed moments as we marveled at the scenery and tidiness of the rural areas. Most of the lake’s shoreline consists of steep hills covered in tropical forest, with little coves everywhere and the water dotted with multiple tiny islands. If we had to choose to live on a lake this one would currently be top contender.
Of course the campsites were once again nothing special and usually a study in contrasts, such as our first two nights were we camped in the backyard of a small guesthouse next to the staff kitchen and had a nightly audience to our own food preparation. In fairness they probably sat on that wall every night and chatted, we and Mr J just added something new to talk about. The stark contrast is evident as you step around the building onto the lakeshore and the most stunning views.
Camping in the backyardWonderful views on the front side
Further down the lake, we stayed in the grounds of a hotel but for a change we weren’t in the back and probably had the best view of all, parked down on the lakeshore lawns were lunch and drinks were served for the hotel guests. Of course Mr Jones did his best to grab the limelight, this time Stuart snapped a pic back of another fan club member as they passed by on a water taxi. A few minutes later Mr Jones latest fan club members (Francois & Benoit) had disembarked and had invited themselves on a tour of our living quarters.
Snapping “back” a member of Mr J fan club
A common activity that many lodges and campgrounds (throughout Africa) offer is a “cultural tour” of the local village where they take you on a walk through the village and you get to see and take pictures of the villagers going about their daily business, this has got us to thinking that perhaps we should create our own activities list: USD5 for a pic of us and Mr J or USD10 for a “cultural tour of him. If we had done this from the start we could have avoided drinking box wine or alternatively paid for half the trip by now. #MrJonesFanClub
Leaving Lake Kivu and the little town of Kibuye the Rwanda slack jawed moment’s continued, this time because the road deteriorated and was a potholed and gravel mess equalled with scruffy villages. The contrast to the Rwanda we had got used was so stark that it almost felt like this little section had been neglected or overlooked in Rwanda’s rejuvenation. Why would this be when the rest of the country has come so far? Also the people in the area generally appeared poorer and more apathetic, is that a sign of what poor infrastructure does?
Our intended destination for the day was a spot about 100km short of the Tanzania border so that we could get across the border early and have plenty of time to deal with what we had heard were terrible roads on the Tanzania side. To get there though we had to pass through Kigali once again and so having found a German butchery previously who supplied good quality and reasonably priced meat we made a stop to fill-up the freezer.
Since entering Rwanda we had noticed a small vibration coming through the car usually when powering up a hill or riding against the gears on a downhill and as we left Kigali this seemed to be getting worse so upon arriving at our overnight destination the rest of the daylight hours were spent trying to diagnose the issue. Not having a wealth of mechanical knowledge can make figuring out such issues a challenge but thanks to modern technology it is certainly easier these days. Having spotted some suspicious items Stuart sent off an email to the mechanic who has maintained Mr j over the years hoping to get a reply even though it was approaching 5pm on a Friday, thankfully Marc come back quickly with some advice. In the meantime a very suspect Universal Joint on the rear prop shaft was found and as it was now rather late, we turned to a Landrover facebook group and searched past discussions. This seemed to confirm that it was most likely the UJ causing the vibrations which fortunately we are carrying a spare for. The next days planned border crossing was scrapped for a maintenance day.
At first we attempted to do the repair ourselves but after struggling with the prop shaft bolts Stuart called it quits and we decided to rather take a slow drive back to Kigali and find a garage their. A call was made to Dion to see if he could find a suitable garage and in doing so we discovered it was UMUGANDA day and therefore everything would be closed until 11.
Umaganda which loosely means “coming together in common purposeto achieve an outcome” is a mandatory program on the last Saturday of each month which has been in place for the last 10 years. From 8:00 to 11:00 all businesses are closed, cars are kept off the streets and Rwandans come together in their neighbourhood to try and make it a little bit better than it was the month before. The evidence speaks for itself although it is not without some controversy as a lack of participation can result in a fine or even arrest.
We had just resigned ourselves to sitting on the side of the road waiting for 11:00 when a singular car drove past so we decided to risk it and follow, a few kilometres down the road at a traffic circle the police pulled over the Rwandan car but allowed us to pass. It turns out that while on Umaganda day Rwandans may not drive prior to 11:00 foreigners can and so for most of the journey back into Kigali we enjoyed blissfully quite roads. Upon arriving back in Kigali we had not yet heard back from Dion so first tried two garages marked on iOverlander but both were closed for the weekend, thankfully shortly thereafter Dions contacts come through with a garage that was open.
Mr Service Ltd is located down a dingy backroad and the first impression of the yard is not great but the Turkish owner and his staff were super helpful and professional and in just over an hour they had removed and refitted the prop shaft. Once again #MrJonesFanClub emerged, this time in the context of a small bidding contest between the owner and one of his customers for an offer on Mr Jones. We had a guaranteed offer of USD30k for him, not bad considering he is 25 years old, and an off the charts one of USD100k! Before temptation got the better of us we made a hasty retreat back to Dion’s house.
Kindle time and keeping out of troubleThe pros at work
There didn’t seem any point overnighting once again closer to the border and so we made an early start from Dion’s knowing a long day was ahead of us, in the end it was 12 very eventful hours! The first drama of the day was a duplicate credit card transaction for fuel at a very smart Engen garage. We literally did not have a single franc in cash left on us so chose Engen as you could pay with your card but having driven away Stuart had a nagging suspicion that all was not in order, so an hour down the road we stopped and checked the banking app. Once again modern technology come into play as we chatted to the bank via the app on our phones and then filled in, signed and logged a dispute via the laptop and email. All done from the side of the road.
Once back on the road we were soon at the border only to be confronted with our next drama of the day, our stay in Rwanda was technically illegal! We had been given a 90 day stay upon entry and paid no visa fees, which it turns out is only allowed for those traveling on a diplomatic passport. After much back and forth we were told we had to go back to the Rwandan side of immigration, get a different stamp and pay for a visa. At any other African border post an issue like this would have opened us up to all sorts of potential issues but not in Rwanda were they were only intent on making sure the rules were applied correctly.
The border with Tanzania is a “one-stop” one but with offices on each side of a large river and depending on which direction you are going you use one or the other for both passport controls. In principle this works fine if you are heading in one direction only but in our case we now had to go against the flow of traffic twice in order to go back to Rwanda, get our visa and then back to Tanzania to follow normal emigration processes. Added to the above was that once all this was complete the Tanzanian official to whom we needed to pay road tax was on lunch and so we had to “wait”.
Leaving the border you are given one last reminder of the stark contrast between Rwanda and most other African countries, within 100m the road deteriorates into a potholed nightmare. As somebody prior to us had described it: “it is so bad the potholes resemble bomb craters”. More on that and the couple of remaining dramas for the day to follow in the Western Tanzania blog.
Africa is a beautiful continent and has much to offer but in our opinion for it to be truly wonderful, a giant leap forward is still required and Rwanda gave us a glimpse of how that may be even possible in the space of 2 decades. At the risk of repeating ourselves below is some of the impressions which really stood out as different to most of the other countries we have visited so far:
A proud and functioning civil society
Communities caring for each other
Happy children running with a bounce in their step
How random adults will help small little children (dressed in neat school uniforms) to cross the road
Adults moving about with vigor
Bicycles used as bicycles (even if transporting a load) and not just pushbikes
Productivity – Even in small or rural villages, people always appear busy, not just standing or sitting around talking away the day
Pretty gardens everywhere
Zero litter or even leaves in gutters
Somebody is always cleaning or tidying up the roadside (even on remote dirt roads)
Smooth roads with fresh paint markings throughout
Apart from the one exception, were road maintenance is required it is done by professional looking crews
A clean and smart capital city
A modern metropolitan and vibey culture in Kigali
Functioning street lights even in small towns
Traffic lights which work, have count down lights on them and are obeyed
Adherence to the law (Boda boda riders with helmets, water taxis with life jackets)
A society that partakes in physical activity for pleasure (cycling clubs, running groups, walking groups, basketball courts, etc)
For sure we did not spend long enough in Rwanda to get a holistic view of it and there must be negative sides to it as well nonetheless the positives made a big impression.
Links to other sections of the blog relating to our time in Rwanda:
The Captain(s) log was always intended as a capture of some of the random thoughts, frustrations and experiences we go through as we travel along but lately it seemed to evolve more into a replica of the travel diary, this month we have tried to get it back on track. Hopefully, in a succinct form, it helps to show the good, bad and sometimes ugly side of full-time travel.
2 January
Slightly frustrating CITY day. To fill gas bottles required 24 hours and we endured the Kampala traffic as we criss-crossed it trying to shop & find a place to stay. Mr Jones did however get his sparkle on @ Buddy’s car wash!
4 January
Feeling like second class citizens, camped at a lovely lodge on shores of Lake Victoria but the campsite is a 10 minute walk down the hill next to staff quarters, it feels like the campers must be hidden away.
9 January
A campsite of SA standards, Kluges Farm, means a planned stop of 2 days become 5. Got admin done, relaxed by pool each afternoon and did a short forest walk.
10 January
Crater lakes scenery was pretty awesome but only enough to hold us for a couple of hours, one crater is another crater. Disappointing accommodation options after driving further south.
11 January
Heart attack material woken by gunshots and a trumpeting elephant at 2am! Definitively makes for a different travel diary entry.
14 January
Mapping software glitches aaaargh! We have struggled so much with routing in East Africa, if its not maps.metrying to send us down footpaths, then its google choosing tiny little back roads in towns and today Tracks4Africa taking us on a narrow dirt road with big drop offs when there was a perfectly good tar road we could have stayed on!
15 January
Bucket list item ticked, mountain gorillas! A great experience but at the same time rather saddened by human nature and the “dog eat dog” mentality of humans to get a picture of said gorillas. While there were only 8 of us in the group some were almost stepping on each other to get a pic or hogging the best spot, guess they never heard of Ubuntu!!!
16 January
First impressions of Rwanda – WOW. A lovely and simple border (Cyanika) crossing and then just amazed by the energy of the people, scenery and cleanliness as we drove towards Kigali. And Kigali: modern, clean, organised and trendy.
22 January
What an interesting few days we have had. Firstly a wonderful weekend in Kigali with Dion, then Mr Jones “appearing” in a music video shoot and now finally on Lake Kivu. So nice to be next to the water again.
23 January
Sitting on the shores of Lake Kivu, camped on a hotels terrace just above the water watching the twinkling lights (including functional street lights) across the bay. Once again Rwanda WOW
24 January
Grumpy after a long day as we have discovered issues with Mr J: looks like we may have a F@&@ universal joint on the rear prop shaft and a bearing issue at the water pump or the water pump is packing up. Also the one boot on the steering drop arm is perishing. Guess we won’t be crossing the border tomorrow….
25 January
Thank goodness for Dion Thompson, after a failed attempt to fix the prop ourselves, “we called a friend” and headed back to Kigali and a proper mechanic for the prop shaft. Stuart applied a bush mechanic fix to the perishing boot, lots of new grease and duct tape to hold it in. Water pump bearing noise we will monitor.
26 January
Broken at the end of a hard and eventful day: a double transaction on credit card; being declared “illegal entrants” upon trying to leave Rwanda; horrific Tanzanian roads; finally ending the day at a dodge motel/bar in a tiny cross roads village.
27 January
Another hard day of terrible roads (8 hours for 330km). The stark contrast to Rwanda in both infrastructure and the nature of people could not be more evident.
28 January
Rest day on Lake Tanganika and it is raining, grrrr! Was hoping for some sunshine so we would swim and perhaps even use the SUP.
31 January
Shattered, been another hectic few days: the “road” from Kigoma down south was more camel trophy stuff than either of us needed; followed by another ugly hotel parking lot camping experience and then a nasty border crossing into Zambia.
