Captain(s) Log: Malawi

Our Captains log is a capture of some of the random thoughts, frustrations and experiences we go through as we travel along. Hopefully it helps to show the good, bad and sometimes ugly side of full-time travel. These log entries cover our almost 2 months in Malawi, we have 1 week left before we enter Tanzania. Apart from the log we also put together a travel diary together with pictures, the one for Malawi will follow shortly.

9 September

Today we can start to relax and enjoy the lake, last two days have been spent cleaning out the internals of Mr Jones after all the dust of north western Mozambique

10 September

Great sunset cruise on lake with fish eagles swooping in for fish from the boat.  Nice social evening with two retiree couples who are the first other travellers (barring one motorbike) we have met since leaving SA

11 September

Amazing how one party can spoil an idyllic location for so many.  An arrogant Dutch couple arrived, practically demanded that vehicles are moved so they can camp near lake and then proceeded to bury their car in the sand down to the chassis creating dust for all.  To top it off they blamed everyone else for not wanting to move. Unnecessary tension in camp for next few days.

13 September

Great day out on the SUP, paddled about 9km so fairly tired at end but scenery was amazing both above and below water.  Water is so clear, with loads of fish and underwater boulder formations to observe.

16 September

Peace and quite in the campsite this morning, for the first time in 9 days we have it to ourselves and selfishly it feels quite nice even though the couples that have been here have all been great and good company.  And lets not forget the 3 days of forty 13 year old kids camped around us followed by 3 days of church service just over the wall in the village.

18 September

It’s 11 days since we arrived at Cape Maclear and we are ready to leave BUT we learnt there are protests planned in all major cities over the elections.  This scuppered our plans to go to Lilongwe and stock up plus extend our visa.   We will sit tight for at least the 3 days of protests and then it’s the weekend so guess we are here for another 5 days.

19 September

Familiarity breeds contempt!  One of the camp attendants has been really helpful during our time here sorting out the welding repairs on the back step, organising some sewing repairs and making market runs for us but lately we have noticed him taking advantage of certain things. It is such a pity as were going to give him a really nice tip, now we are left wondering and probably will only leave an average tip.

20 September

Great day as we extended our visas at Monkey Bay (took all of 5 minutes) giving us 60 days in Malawi and were pleasantly surprised by Lilongwe where we got all our shopping done except we didn’t come right in finding a replacement inverter.   

24 September

After a few relaxing days in the mountains at Nchisi Forest lodge we headed back to the lake. After enjoying a simple lunch and beer (after the waiter managed to spill half of one beer all over Stuart) at Ngotagotha Pottery Lodge, tensions rose when trying to setup camp – it was busy (ish) so felt like we were parking on top of people, hot and humid with wind, a little sandy (which were hoping to avoid) and after parking and setting up we got swarmed by ants.   Later while attempting to fix the inverter, Stuart cut his forehead open.  Some days things just don’t go your way!!

25 September

Another day of the small things getting to us, the wind blew all day and night picking up dust from the beach and coating the insides of Mr J and us while we slept.

26 September

Stuarts birthday and having spent another night of being rocked and rolled by the wind, with dust thrown in for good measure we decided to move and try find somewhere else where perhaps we could enjoy the day.  Ended up at a beautiful spot called Ngala beach, lots of green grass and big trees. It just has such a nicer “energy” than the last couple of days.  A very nice surprise was a birthday card and beer from two travellers (Leanne & Win) we had met a few days before.

29 September 

First sick day of the trip.  Stuart woke to serious upset stomach, but once there was nothing left in the stomach we decided to still move a couple 100km down the lake.  He was a very broken man by lunch but an ice cold coke, plate of hot chips and a good afternoon nap went a long way to making him feel better.

30 September

Woke up feeling like normal again, thank goodness it was literally only a 12hour bug, whatever caused it.  Had a chilled day around camp.

1 October

Camping in a picnic site on top of Zomba plateau, so peaceful as we are the only ones here and when the mist arrived it was quite every.  Basic facilities but its so nice we will stay an extra day.

3 October

When overlanding a campsite should offer 3 simple things, hot water for showers and enough pressure to rinse soap off, grassy sites so can keep feet clean and ideally a clean dishwashing area with basins not super low.  Malawi campsites are relatively expensive at USD20 per night and often don’t tick any of the boxes.  Tonight’s is a prime example, sandy/muddy parking area and showers which were just warm but an almost non-existent water flow!  We haven’t check the basins yet.

5 October

After being bombarded by “guides” when we tried to camp at the Mulanje mountain campsite we have moved to Africa Wild truck campsite, its so nice and peaceful. Think we will do a tea plantation walk tomorrow.

8 October

Made a 4,5 hour detour today in order to purchase wine and groceries, Blantyre didn’t have much decent stock so we trekked off to Lilongwe.  Annoyingly picked up a speeding fine on the way – the road signage is often very unclear in the little villages and Stuart got caught out twice, the first one he argued his way out of but no chance on the 2nd one!

10 October

Had a great evening last night, joined Steve & Leanne for a curry and then went to the campsite bar which had a few expats at it.  Good conversation and many laughs resulted in us only getting to bed @ 1:30 and felt a tad fragile this morning.

12 October

2 months on the road and we have showers with decent water pressure and hot water (not that we need it as it is so warm already).  What a difference the little things can make!  Fat Monkeys, you were great 9 years ago and once again tonight.

13 October

We got a room and it was hot! To celebrate Steve’s 60th birthday we joined them at Thumbi Island view lodge. We had a great afternoon and evening however we definitely sleep better in Mr Jones when it is this warm.

17 October

Time flies by when you are in a beautiful spot, we made a big hop up the lake hoping to stay somewhere long and use the SUP for a few days.  The wind has conspired against us but that hasn’t stopped us chilling and “losing” a few days.

18 October

Did a big paddle on the SUP today, roughly 4km into a headwind and swell, the island we were targeting seemed to take forever to get too.  The homeward trip was however a wonderful downward paddle.

20 October

DSTV seeking mission to watch the Springboks take on Japan.  First walked 1,5km along lakeshore to a neighbouring lodge with no luck so once back at Mr Jones took the SUP in opposite direction, spotted a roof with satellite dish and after a small dumping coming into shore we had success and the bokke had success too 🙂

22 October

Yesterday drove a fantastic narrow dirt road with great views over the mountains to an isolated lodge.  The road reminded us a lot of both the Valley of a Thousand hills and wandering along the wild coast.  We eventually dropped 900m over the last 8km into the bay in which the lodge is located, when the road ran out the local villagers were only too happy to show us the tracks to Usisya lodge.

24 October

We knew Mr Jones would have to work hard leaving Usisya and very soon we were in low range due to the steep inclines.  About halfway up, even in low range we lost power and then the engine cut out on a rather steep section.  Far from ideal.  Even though we had a 1/4 tank in the main tank Stuart figured it was most likely a fuel starvation issue so we started to pump fuel from our 3rd tank and prime the fuel system with the handpump.  Fortunately this worked and 20min later we were moving upwards again.

26 October 

The last 2 days have been spent doing all the boring stuff of travelling in theory, but the difference is when you are on the road you seem to always find the gems in humans. Maybe its just that we have the time these days or that we are willing to engage and don’t have the do not disturb sign on.  From the random aid worker who admires Mr Jones to the guys at the car wash that tell you about being deported from RSA or to the guys in the market that help you through the maze to find the ever elusive paraffin that we have been hunting down for the last 2 months.