Captain(s) Log: Mozambique

Quick daily thoughts on our 23 days in Mozambique

15 August

Crossed into Mozambique @ Giriyondo and finished at Sunset Beach.  Lessons learnt for the day: Research thoroughly if transiting through a National Park, paying R550 to transit across 70km of corrugated road with zero to look at other than Mopani forest is a waste.  That excludes the potential wear and tear on Mr Jones as we rattled him to pieces, stopping to pick up pieces of gear that have fallen off is not fun!!

16 August

Good to be back in Tofo, enjoyed a nice plate of chips and beer for lunch. Had a great surf session late afternoon.  Life is good!

19 August

Rude start to the day with a bee sting which is a first for me (Tania)  but not as horrific/rude as it was for the poor bee. Was very windy on the beach but watching whales breach made it overall an awesome day

20 August

Overcast when got up, went for a surf and was the only one out for about 45min then joined by one other. Quite nice waves.  Cold walk back to camp in the rain, fortunately madala had the donkey going so could grab a hot shower.  Now we are enjoying our 1sqm living space (Tania on floor and Stuart sitting on fridge) enjoying coffee.  Later moved upstairs to our “pyjama” lounge.

21 August

Windy together with off and on sun is making for an uncomfortable morning as can’t find a happy temp while sitting around for breakfast plus the wind keeps blowing stuff into the sand.  Add in the fact that both of us are a bit sore and stiff and you have two grumpy campers today.

From grumpy in the morning to a great afternoon on the beach.  Nice sun and temp combined with good surf.

22 August

Another great and full day.  It is not obvious until you doing it but this lifestyle does consume time as we do everything manually, from washing dishes to walking into the market to buy food, etc.  Of course we did also spend about 4 hours on the beach.

27 August

So long Tofo it’s been good to know you.  Once again had a great time here, Stuart got some quality surfing time but both of us are ready to move on.

28 August

“No sand we feel so clean”.  Camped on beachfront at Inhassoro but in a grassy campsite, what a wonderful feeling to have a shower and walk back to Mr J without getting feet full of beach sand.  

29 August

Wind is pumping and its cold, how is it possible that we have have a King size duvet cover, a queen size duvet inner and only a 3/4 size bed and I (Stuart) still have only a little bit of sheet to cover me at night ?

30 August

Feeling rather depressed, it’s been 12 years since we last come up to the Gorongosa area and there has been practically no development outside of a few petrol stations and a Chinese built interchange outside Beira.  The general population is living exactly as they did then, perhaps all that’s changed for them is that the young teenagers we saw 12 years ago are now parents. It seems like a rinse and repeat cycle.

31 August

A hard day of really krap roads (7 hours for 300km) ends on the lawns of CUA CUA lodge on the banks of the Zambezi.  A few beers later and a wash in the pool and we feel better until the sun sets and the mozzies come out in force.  We cover ourselves in Deet and worry about Malaria while preparing supper.

2 September

Long day of driving, good roads.  Ended at scenic spot outside Nampula BUT it is the bratpack from Nampula party/picnic spot.  The last revellers left around nine.  Tania woke around 4 hearing somebody by the car, then the lights went off so we sat nervously peering out, luckily nothing come of it.

5 September

Never judge a book by its cover!  We arrived at the only campsite around Ilha De Mozambicue and first impressions were we can only stay one night.  The hosts were so friendly and even though facilities very basic it was spotless and rather peaceful so we ended up staying 3 nights.  Il

6 September

Crows are worse than Hadi DA’s!!

7 September

SHATTERED! Yesterday was exhausting, Yesterday was ugly, Yesterday Africa did its best to chew us up and spit us out.  12 Hours on the road (including a border crossing) of which at least 10 were not stop driving and 5 of those on rough ugly foot deep powder dirt which left us and Mr Jones caked in dust.  I think all 3 of us will be coughing out dirt for weeks to come.  Supper was fit for a king, a beer and shared packet of Simba chips as we couldn’t be bothered to do anything else and they were the only things clean.  To make matters worse our overnight stop was grimy, so we didn’t even get a shower.