# lifeontheroad – HippySquared

Travel Diary: Slow travel South Africa during COVID

After 6 months of being effectively stationary how do you decide when to move and where to go – you draw a line in the sand/set a date; then flip flop between destinations for a week or so; and finally a day before the said “line in sand” is due you draw a second line and say we are off to the Drakensberg. But where within that – open iOverlander, pick a spot closest to you as destination #1 and because of Covid-19 pick a second spot “just in case” they ain’t open and voila you have a plan. At least for the next 4 days 🙂

Who would have ever thought Mr Jones and ourselves would spend 2 months here, thanks Kevin & Di

We left Zimbali exactly 2 months after arriving with a sense of excitement to be back on the road but also a sense of trepidation, what would it feel like to travel within South Africa where we are familiar with the money, the shops, the areas etc even though we would be going to places we hadn’t been to before. Would it have the same intrigue and sense of discovery or would we ultimately get a feeling of boredom and lack that wanderlust feeling?

Time will ultimately tell but it didn’t take long after our arrival at our first stop (Garden Castle, in the Southern Drakensberg) for a sense of calm and peace to come over us. The beautiful vistas up the valley into the foothills combined with a simple campsite in which we were the only occupants was food for the soul and a reminder of how much we enjoyed living in tune with nature prior to lockdown.

A cold front blew in on our last day at Garden Castle so on the drive down the valley and back to Underberg we got to test the newly replaced heater. On the agenda for Underberg was some shopping, obtain cash and to search for a coffee shop with decent WIFI so that we could resolve some queries the taxman had raised with Tania. For the latter we even put on our town rags, jeans and decent shoes.

Having completed our business, a short hop northward took us to Lotheni and another KZN parks board campsite which we hoped would be open. Short hops in the berg are relative, as the 53km took nearly 90minutes due to all the valleys and hills to pass through on the way. Moses at the camp office was very thorough in his check in procedure, first the COVID checks and register then a detailed check-in process and explanation of which sites we must not “interfere” with as they were already booked for the upcoming long weekend.

The 24th September is Heritage Day in South Africa and fell on a Thursday meaning a great opportunity for many South Africans to pursue our heritage of trekking off somewhere remote to camp and braai. The campsite started to fill up late in afternoon of the 23rd which meant for two people who over the last year have only ever been, at most, surrounded by 2 to 3 other vehicles there was a lot of bush tv material. The only issue with bush tv is it doesn’t come with subtitles but it does have the advantage that you can make up your own plot (read: gossip) as you please, we almost forgot to sip our wine as the sun set…

The following day saw the arrival of the remaining campers which included a number of Land Rovers, including one couple who looked vaguely familiar. It turned out that a couple of years ago Stuart had read an article written by them in a local 4×4 magazine of their experiences in South America travelling in a very similar Landy to Mr Jones. Subsequently we had exchanged some emails with the intention of meeting up but in fact hadn’t, over the course of the afternoon we all remembered that we “knew” each other. It was lovely to meet you finally in person, Vivian & Hanlie, and to finally get to learn of your experiences in person.

The arrival of the long weekend also brought another mechanical gremlin to test our patience, the fridge/freezer started to struggle and then ultimately just stopped cooling. It felt like we have just had one mechanical or equipment gremlin after another in the recent weeks and both of us were quite over it. With a rapidly defrosting freezer it was clear by lunchtime on the 25th that our idea of spending the next few weeks wandering around the Drakensberg was going to have to change and the decision was made to travel up to Johannesburg in order to get the freezer attended to by the manufacturers. The silver lining being that we would get to spend some time with Stuart’s parents for the first time in just over a year.

The drive up to Johannesburg felt very long, especially as it was fairly hot and very windy for most of the way. As we got closer we couldn’t help but reflect on what was, what is and what will be. Joburg has been very good to us in terms of the lifestyle we led, our careers and the fact that those two combined allowed us to achieve and now live out our dream but it did now feel very much like the “big smoke” and thus apart from seeing family and friends held little attraction.

Our time in town quickly flew by as we set about getting many jobs done, including changing Mr Jones registered address (a lengthy saga in COVID times), some service items requiring specialist tools and definitely beyond Stuart’s capability, battery replacements on phones, completion of our vaccination regiment, visits to the dentist, new artwork for Mr Jones etc. In between we also had a few nice “kuier” sessions with friends and ex-colleagues.

Towards the end of the second week and with no immediate end in sight to our fridge repair saga, Stuart managed to convince National Luna to provide a loan unit so that we could escape the big smoke for a bit. Our dilemma was however in which direction to go and in the end, we settled on the Waterberg as it is not too far and has a number of camping options.

Only 15 months prior while we were waiting on the house sale to be finalised we had also escaped to the Waterberg and spent a lovely week soaking in the hot springs at Bela Bela, once again this seemed like an attractive option but at over R700 a night for the two of us to camp during the week that idea was quickly abandoned and instead we settled on small game farm called Andante.

We hadn’t been parked for long at Andante when the first new member of “Mr Jones fan club” arrived to have a look at him, after receiving the tour he said he would be back later with his wife and to take a picture if that was okay. We were absolutely stumped at how small a world it can be sometimes when a little while later upon their return to visit Mr Jones one of his wife’s first sentences was “my sister has one just like this in South America”, to which we replied in unison “no ways not Hanlie?” (Refer above to our meeting only 2 weeks prior).

Sunday saw the departure of all guests apart from ourselves and the arrival of some very heavy rain resulting in a mini river running under Mr Jones. It would appear our rain god status has yet to leave us, thankfully the rain only lasted 24 hours before the sunshine returned. The beauty of the rain was that it washed clean all the sandy tracks that crisscross the farm and so on our daily walks we had the pleasure of spotting and attempting to identify all the fresh animal spoor.

After a very relaxing 8 days and with the likelihood that the fridge would be ready the coming week we decided to have a change of scenery and also move a little closer to Johannesburg so on the Sunday morning we packed up and headed for the AKTV Klein Kariba resort. We had thought that arriving on Sunday would mean the resort was emptying as people headed back to Johannesburg, boy where we wrong! Mr Jones was shocked at the lack of social distancing and ourselves at the number of kids shorter than 40cm, it was definitely going to be an interesting few days.

We are not sure who was more scared, Mr Jones or ourselves!

On the Monday morning we got the great news that our fridge would be ready the next day so we set about planning for a busy day of running errands in Johannesburg. On the list was a visit to Garmin in Rosebank for an interim replacement unit, collect the fridge, visit bolt supplier for some springs and other miscellaneous bolts, visit a caravan repair place for some pole ends to improve our awning setup and finally do some shopping for groceries for the next week or so. An early start was planned in order to drive the 150km into town and complete all of this.

Thankfully Tuesday went relatively smoothly and we were parked up at Stuart’s folks house by midafternoon enjoying another catchup and getting ready for a braai with some of their friends from the retirement village who were interested in our adventures.

When we had left the coast just over a month previously and headed for the Drakensberg the plan was to spend time in the mountains waiting for the winds to die down and then head back for the coast, obviously that didn’t happen due to the fridge saga but with the fridge repaired we were now itching to get back on “track”, so early Wednesday morning we said cheers to Stuart’s folks and headed towards the coast. We hadn’t yet been to all the places in the berg we had hoped to visit so first we stopped at Royal Natal National park for a few days.

Amphitheatre at Royal Natal National Park

Not being accustomed to traveling long term in a country that loves to “go away” over long weekends and school holidays (and because COVID has resulted in unusual timing for the holidays) we were once again surprised when the campsite started to full up on the Friday afternoon. At first we thought it must just be a case of everyone making the most of working from home and taking extended weekends but as we drove away the next day we learnt it was in fact the start of a short school break.

On the way down to the coast a chance WhatsApp picture from friends of the offramp to Tania old hometown meant a change of plans and a very pleasant overnight stay with them. They were having a short break during the school holidays at another friends holiday home.

We had hoped to make our first stop on the coast at a backpackers/surf camp midway down the south coast but upon learning that due to COVID they weren’t accepting campers we carried on to our 2nd intended stop at Trafalgar, being a lovely caravan park which Stuart’s family visited regularly in his youth. If you refer to the About Stuart section, this was where Stuart first dreamt of leading a nomadic surfing life so very appropriate that we now visit.

Hard to not love a place when this is your daily view

Apart from one trip out on a rainy day for some grocery shopping we spent the next 14 days alternating between surfing, lying on the beach, walking on the beach, spotting dolphins and whales from camp or admiring the wildlife that emerges in a campsite when you are the only residents.

Gallery: South Africa – Travelling during Covid #1

Captain(s) log: September&October 2020 A glimpse into some of our daily emotions as we attempt to get back on the road.

Maintenance Log: Our running record of repairs and maintenance both to Mr Jones and the equipment we carry along with him.

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Travel Diary: Phase 2 of Lockdown

Homeless during lockdown! What happens when your home is where you park it and because of COVID-19 restrictions you now have nowhere to park.

With 5 weeks of Level 3 lockdown under our belt and signs that camping places were beginning to open, we left Cape Town just before a big cold front was about to lash the Western Cape and headed into the mountains just outside Montagu. Our destination was a totally off-grid spot were social distancing was never going to be a problem as we were the only campers and the two other couples staying in cottages were at least 500m away.

Mr. Jones appeared to be in shock that he was actually back in use when on our first night we were unable to cook on either of the two gas stoves! A couple of quick checks left us none the wiser whether we had a blockage in the gas pipes, an issue with the regulator or if it was just too cold for the gas to flow properly but fortunately we have a spare regulator and short loose pipe so that was quickly rigged up to the spare gas bottle and portable stove and thus only caused a small delay in supper.

Solving our gas supply mystery the following morning

During lockdown in Cape Town we had got quite good at doing a short yoga session each morning and had good intentions of carrying this practise on while on the road, we managed this on the first day but not again for the entire week we stayed. For now we will blame this on the cold front which arrived….

With the arrival of the cold front the days and evenings become very chilly but with all the cold weather gear we have hauled around for the last year (and not had reason to use) we were never too cold and always slept wonderfully warm. Although the winds that accompanied the cold front did leave us wanting for sleep the one night as Mr. J was buffeted around like a yacht on stormy seas.

We were expecting the arrival of our friends the De Nobrega’s on the Friday, but with no cell reception we had no way of knowing that the cold front had made them delay their departure, needless to say they duly arrived the following day. A wonderful couple of days and evenings followed before they headed back to Cape Town and we began thinking of where to next?

After a week of being totally disconnected and with the weather turning ugly once again we packed up and headed out. Our departure was not without a little drama: as we finished climbing up out of the valley Mr. J suddenly lacked power and then just stopped. At this point it was pouring with rain and blowing a howling gale, at one point the rain drops even turned to ice as they hit the windows. There was no way we were going to climb out and try and fiddle with him in those conditions so we spent the time trying to work through the scenarios of what could be wrong; the lack of power and cut-out was very similar to what we had experienced in Malawi also on a steep climb up from the lake and on first appearance it appeared like we had ran out of fuel but we knew that could be not possible based on our mileage so far; our next idea was that perhaps somehow we had got water/contaminations in the fuel system. When the rain eased off a bit, Stuart (assuming the 2^nd idea the most probable) opened the valve on the fuel sedimenter and instead of getting the expected water and diesel flow was greeted by a hissing sound as air escaped the system. A very strange result and it would take a few more “breakdowns” over the next few weeks for us to finally find the problem. For now though we were grateful to not be stuck in the middle of nowhere and happily setoff for Montagu.

Having spent a week disconnected from the world and being back in travel mode we were in no hurry to “stick our faces to phones” in order to catch-up on social media and the news.

This meant we blissfully went about shopping for some supplies before hitting the road again and heading east along the very scenic R62. The real grassroots impact of the lockdown and ban on local travel was very evident as we passed through the small towns bordering the Karoo, such as Barrydale, whose economies are heavily dependent on weekend travellers.

When you are the only tourists in a whole town

Our plan was still to travel slowly and explore the area but after finding 2 potential camping spots closed and needing ideas we did finally pull out the phones to search for alternatives, at which point we saw the inevitable WhatsApp messages regarding the renewed ban on alcohol sales and also clarity that leisure accommodation was to remain closed for the remainder of Lockdown Level 3.

We were now homeless with nowhere to park….

The regulations did still allow inter-provincial travel if you were relocating residences so having had our fair share of the cold and wet that is a Cape Town winter and with the prospect of a very long extended lockdown being in place ( and no Old Brown Sherry to warm the bones at Samantha’s house ) we decided to use the allowed exemption for travel and relocate to Stuart’s brothers holiday home in Durban.

Now that we had a plan of action, first priority for the afternoon was to find somewhere to sleep before starting the long trip east the next day. It took three more failed attempts and 150km before we eventually found a spot in Calitzdorp.

That night as we sat parked in a “formal” camping spot next to an old railway siding, Tania cooked supper while Stuart sat in the front of Mr. J preparing the affidavits required to allow inter-provincial movement. Thanks to modern technology and suitably qualified friends we were able to digitally sign such documents, email them off and receive them back duly notarized.

Considering that we had 1600km ahead of us, our start the next morning was much later than it should have been but it is difficult to emerge from under a lovely warm duvet when the sun is late to rise and its bitterly cold outside. Our plan was to do the journey in 2 days which in a modern vehicle would be no issue but in good old Mr. Jones was going to be quite a big task.

Despite being under “pressure” we thoroughly enjoyed the day’s drive as we marvelled at the constantly changing landscapes and scenery; the stunning beauty and rock formations of Meiringspoort; snow on the mountains and next to the road around Richmond; the beautiful yellow grasses contrasting with browns all through the Karoo. If only we could have done this slowly and stopped often.

When we had set off in the morning we had no idea how far we would get or where we would sleep that night, especially considering the previous days challenges in finding accommodation, so as the shadows grew long we began considering our options. The first one was to head down one of the small dirt roads that intersect with the N1 and bush camp for the night and the second option was to spend a night in a truck stop with the long-haul truckers. Bush camping in the rest of Africa is generally pretty safe and accepted but we are not so sure about it in South Africa, even in the middle of the Karoo so in the end decided on the latter option.

As the sun was setting we pulled into a truck stop outside the tiny dorp of Springfontein, roughly 150km south of Bloemfontein, not knowing what to expect but ultimately were pleasantly surprised. The ablutions were spotless, security good and if you fill up with diesel you stay for free otherwise it is R50 for the night. The AluCab Icarus roof and subsequent camper conversion were once again worth their weight in gold as we holed up inside drinking wine and cooking supper while watching the outside temperature drop, the forecast predicted -6 deg Celsius for the morning!

We had been a little concerned that we would have a disturbed night of sleep with the coming and goings of trucks but in fact slept really well and only noticed noise from around 4:30 in the morning, this may have been because of the lockdown curfew in place but nonetheless we weren’t complaining. As expected the temperatures plummeted overnight and when we switched lights on, around 6am, the inside of the tent was sparkling with ice crystals so emerging from our lovely warm duvet took quite a bit of willpower especially knowing that we have no heater in Mr. J and would not be getting warm anytime soon. Eleven months prior in Mozambique we had a coolant leak at the heater and so had bypassed it as “bush” fix, replacing the heater matrix was on the to-do list but to our detriment we had only planned to do it once arriving in Natal.

Apart from not being able to warm ourselves, the lack of a heater meant we couldn’t defrost the windows so Stuart had to scrape off a surprisingly thick and stubborn layer of ice from the windscreen using our kitchen spatula.

We must have been quite a sight when we pulled into the Engen One stop at Bloemfontein, (anybody who has ever driven in a defender will know that they are anything but airtight) so with no heater and the chilly temps we were wearing as many layers as we could and had towels and other miscellaneous clothing items stuck in every nook and cranny trying to keep the cold out and the little warmth we were generating in. Apart from filling up with diesel we were hoping to sit down at Wimpy to warmup while enjoying some bacon and eggs with coffee, alas this was not to be as they were still closed under the Covid lockdown restrictions. A takeout pie for breakfast it was going to be for the second day in a row.

The rest of the day passed by uneventfully as we traversed across the Free State, stopping briefly in Bethlehem to finally shed some layers of clothes, and then barrelling along the N3 towards Durban (well barrelling as fast as a heavily loaded Landy can).

Despite making good progress, Kevin’s holiday home was 100km to far in respect to getting there in time to collect keys, so late in the afternoon we pulled in at Tania sister’s (Nicole) smallholding in Drummond for one more night of camping in Mr. Jones as the “inn was full”, so to speak.

Anybody who has been monitoring our maintenance log will know that the trip has not been without a few minor breakdowns/repairs but Mr. Jones has always been a scholar and a gentleman in terms of when and where he decided to take a break and we have always appreciated him for that. Our sense of humour and appreciation for him did however fail us when he chose the very moment we arrived at the security office of the estate Kevin’s holiday home is located in, to cut out and then subsequently refuse to start – the estate is very smart, has many rules and we doubt anybody has ever crawled under a car at the security booms in an attempt to fix it.

Thankfully by the time we had completed the necessary biometric registrations for access he had had enough of a rest and started with a bit of coaxing. We clearly had a problem but what was it? First thought would be the some issue as a few days earlier but alas it was not, over time we were to discover & fix more than one issue.

Over the next weeks we slowly got used to having a large family home to ourselves, made full use of the amenities and in between relaxing, made regular weekend trips up to Drummond to carry out various service items on Mr. Jones. Mr. Jones was not the only one to receive maintenance attention during this time, Tania had been struggling with her foot the last few months which we thought would require the attention of an orthopaedic surgeon. Thankfully no surgery was required but the orthopaedic did recommend visiting a bio-kineticist to align the “chassis”. Normally the bio-kineticist would conduct a program for this over the course of 3 – 4 months but as we did not expect to hang around in Ballito that long, he come up with an intense program to “fix your sh#t” in one month (his words not ours…).

Just as for our stay in Cape Town, our stay in Ballito has been longer than envisaged but after 8 weeks enjoying all the amenities it is time to get back in our home and start wandering.

It is easy to procrastinate leaving, especially in times like this and with all the luxury around us, but just as it was a little over a year ago when we first embarked on the journey we are reminded that “the first step is always the hardest…”.

Travel Diary: Phase 1 of Lockdown

When a planned stay with family of two weeks turns into one month, then 2 months all the while quietly slipping back into “domestic bliss”. Eventually after 4 months we hit the road, these were the joys for us of being caught up in South Africa’s initial Covid-19 lockdown phases.

When we first arrived in Cape Town on the 21 March we were planning on spending a couple of weeks there, firstly celebrating the 50^th birthdays of Tania middle sister (Nicole) & brother in-law and then doing some riding around the peninsular on our Harley Davidson which had conveniently relocated together with Samantha (Tania youngest sister) while we were away on our travels.

After that we were going to spend 3 weeks working our way leisurely up South Africa’s garden route and Wild Coast to arrive in Durban by the beginning of May in time for the visit of our son, Devon, and his girlfriend Hannah arrival. This was to be Hannah’s first trip to South Africa and we had a wonderful 2 weeks planned taking in the KZN coast, game reserves and the Drakensberg.

Two days after our arrival, a three week Covid-19 lockdown was announced which instantly scuppered all of the above plans. At the time we however naively still thought that we could be back on the road internally within South Africa by May and that Devon & Hannah would be able to fly out from the UK by September. If that were to become the case we believed we may still get to South America by the end of 2020, only a few months later than originally planned.

In the meantime we turned our attention to keeping sane and having fun during the initial stage of lockdown with lots of reading, taking regular walks through the vineyard & gardens of the property Samantha lives on, weeding in the vegetable garden, streaming online concerts at sunset and conducting theme events: “pancakes at Mr. Jones farmstall” , “Sam’s Trattoria”, “Tania Indian Curry”

As the initial 3 weeks was extended to 6 and with the prospects of even more extensions likely we realised all long-term planning was meaningless and that we really would just have to wait and see….

Thankfully despite the lockdown extension, the slow opening of commercial activity meant Stuart could focus on some of the jobs and upgrades we had planned for Mr. J based on learnings from the last 8 months. When we built him in Johannesburg we could easily source materials as Stuart knew were all the suppliers were but now in a new city much time was spent googling and wandering around industrial areas seeking out a suitable supplier.

Once the basic materials were sourced Stuart set about the upgrades and was ultimately amazed at what can be achieved with only a drill, a small hacksaw and camp table for a workshop plus of course the other standard tools we carry in Mr. J

As the weeks passed we ticked off a number of jobs ranging from upgrading our solar power setup, right down to making small brackets and enhancements which will make living in our tiny space even easier. A breakdown of the upgrades done can be found here.

At the beginning of June South Africa moved to “lockdown level 3” which freed up some movement and left a number of grey areas in the regulations open for interpretation. For example exercise was allowed but surfing wasn’t or the regulations implied that leisure intra-provincial travel and accommodation was allowed while the tourism department said it was not.

Considering that surfing is the perfect “social distancing sport” it did not take long for the the surfers to reclaim the waves and so we began to make daily trips down to the beach for the first surfing Stuart had done since leaving Mozambique in August 2019, although it did require the purchase of a thick wetsuit. The wetsuit made it perfectly possible to spend lengthy periods in the water but our favourite will still always be warm water locations. While Stuart was out surfing Tania would sit on the edge of the promenade (beaches were still off-limit) with her mask on, reading and observing the general goings on.

We also began to observe on various social media platforms that a few camping places were starting to open up so the decision was made to take some tentative steps towards travel within the Western Cape hoping that as time progressed travel across provincial borders would be allowed and we could therefore move our way eastwards to Durban and a warmer winter.

In the second week of July we set off, just as a massive cold front was about to lash the Western Cape, for a totally off-grid location in the mountains outside Montagu where social distancing & isolation was never going to be an issue.

More of our 10 days off-grid and in isolation to follow in the next blog post, together with our subsequent mad dash across the country when a hasty change in the regulations forced our hand as to “should we stay or should we go”

Travel Diary: South Africa’s West Coast

As we sit safely ensconced in isolation, it seems almost surreal to think how foot loose and fancy free we were only 3 weeks ago. This travel diary covers our re-entry into South Africa and the short(ish) journey down the west coast to Cape Town. The accompanying Captain(s) log gives the usual brief insight into the daily emotions and thoughts of life off the “well trodden path”.

As everyone already knows border crossing days rank highly as our least favourite days but both our entry into Namibia a little over a month ago and again our exit into South Africa have been super easy. Although they are different countries most of the time Namibia has just felt like an extension of South Africa, right down to the fact that you can pay with and often receive change in Rands, so apart from some stamps in the passport we could have just been changing provinces.

The border did though bring us, for the first, time face to face with the Corona virus fear taking hold of the world as all the border officials where wearing face masks & gloves and we had to have our temperature taken before entry into the SA border area. This is not a unique experience on the trip, for most of our time in East Africa they had been battling an Ebola outbreak which meant many borders had quite strict hygiene measures in place. For instance when entering Rwanda we had to exit the vehicle, have our temperature taken and then walk across sanitized mats while washing our hands.

Due to the vastness of Namibia we have often been quite disconnected from both social and mainstream news media the last couple of weeks and so the way that the Covid-19 has impacted the world has been very difficult to get our minds around. We re-entered South Africa mid-March and at that stage, the same number of people die on South African roads over the festive season as had died in Italy over it’s worst month (then but it got worse) but yet the road death toll just gets passing mention and thought each year. 10 days later as South Africa entered lockdown this statement was proven to be naive but we have left it in because that’s what it felt like for us at that stage… However we also understand the precautions required given the rapid spread of the virus and on more than one occasion have thought perhaps we are better off staying out in the countryside and not heading to Cape Town.

After spending our first night back in South Africa at the west coast dorp of Kleinzee we headed southwards to the Namaqua National park. Entry at the northern gate is done by opening the gate yourself and then using the two way radio housed in a box on the side of a building to talk to the park headquarters some 80km to the south and obtain “approval” to enter. After lowering the tyre pressures for the soft sand ahead we enjoyed a lovely wander down the coast stopping many times to admire the views and little bays, finally stopping at “Kwaas se Baai” to camp. Later in the afternoon some officials stopped by to officially sign us in and collect our camping fees.

The campsite at “Kwaas se Baai” was just perfect: on top of a little rise overlooking an aquamarine bay dotted with kelp and fringed with white sand. The only thing preventing longer stays is the often inclement weather and that you need to be totally self-sufficient as there is no water, power, etc. Our first afternoon presented us with all the west coast “seasons”: from sunny to windy, then very misty and finally mild clouds which gave us a lovely sunset. The following day however dawned still and clear which is exactly what we had wished for, so the day’s activities consisted of a short wander down to beach for some sand&sun time, back to Mr J for lunch and then back down to beach again for more sun&sand time combined with white wine. A perfect day!

On our 3rd day we woke to the ugly “season” with lots of mist and cold winds coming off the Atlantic. Over the fire the previous evening we had discussed staying another day as we had sufficient water and the solar panels had kept the battery well charged, but that idea had now quickly evaporated. The drive out of the park, firstly inland and then further south, felt hard going which was possibly not helped by a hand brake which was emitting a burnt brake pad smell. Stuart had forgotten to disengage the handbrake 2 days earlier when setting off from one of our stops to admire the coastline and with Mr J being in low range at the time due to the thick sand it took a while until we noticed it (that while, being long enough to burn brake pads and possibly bind them to the drum!!).

We were undecided were to go for the night and eventually landed up at Standfontein because the reviews on iOverlander described “Horse Shoe Campsite with lush green lawns and shady trees”. The lawns were green but certainly not lush, trees rather small and the wind was honking, added to which the ablutions are nothing special given that it is in fact a municipal campground but sadly with private camping rates. We were not impressed but being tired and hot, had no other choice. Supper was cooked and eaten inside Mr J while the wind howled around us, the van was rocking but with the mood inside you certainly could have come a knockin…

The one advantage of our detour to Standfontein is it put us only 9km from Doring Bay and Friars Cove winery. So after a leisurely start in the morning, including taking time out to loosen the binding hand brake, we trotted down the road to the winery for some tastings and a lovely lunch of Calamari and snoekkoekies (fish cakes). Having stocked up Mr J with white wine, we headed further south towards Citrusdal (and it’s mineral baths) with the intention to park off, relax and kill time before getting to Cape Town for the end of the week.

It was however extremely hot on the road (with no aircon we recorded 38deg Celsius inside Mr Jones! ) so when we passed a spot called Roodeberg resort bordering on the small Bulshoek dam, it didn’t take much to persuade us to do a u-turn and decide to spend a few days camped on the lake shore. When it started to cool down in the evening, the SUP was unloaded from the roof box and inflated ready for some paddle time the next day. Incredibly the last time we used the SUP was 4,5 months ago in Malawi, we had hoped to use it on both Lake Kivu (Rwanda) and Lake Tanganyika (Tanzania) but in both cases a combination of iffy weather and concern re potential lurking crocodiles stopped that.

A couple of very relaxed days followed with a few paddles thrown in for good measure, all the while blissfully disconnected from the world and the escalating corona issues as there was no cell reception down by the lake. We did however, once again, get a taste of what lay ahead of us when the campsite put up a notice “barring foreigners from staying due to Corona fears” as we prepared to leave.

While we could have easily headed straight into Cape Town from Roodeberg we weren’t due there (due because Tania sister, Nicole, was flying in for a birthday celebration) for a few more days and so decided to stop, as intended a few days priors, at Citrusdal mineral baths. While checking in at reception it quickly become apparent to us that now that we are back in SA we may perhaps have to start pre-planning with regards overnight stops as they had limited availability and only 2 sites available if wanting to stay multiple nights. A routine of a mid morning swim followed by a lazy afternoon next to Mr Jones and then a late night swim quickly developed over the next couple of days.

The arrival of the weekend and the start of SA’s school holidays, with the resultant influx of campers, was a clear signal for us to move on and complete our journey into Cape Town. The final drive across Western Cape’s Swartland with it’s mix of agricultural (wheat, grain and wine) and rugged mountains was a nice reminder of how much variety South Africa has to offer in terms of scenery and tourism.

Sadly the planned birthday celebrations for Nicole were not to be, as the impact of Covid-19 really hit home and South Africa went into lockdown. By pure luck we had made it to SA and the safe haven of Cape Town just in time, (for which we are very grateful as being on the road would be extremely difficult during this time), but it is surreal to think that not 10 days earlier we had been sitting on the West coast totally disconnected and downplaying the impact of the virus.

Gallery: South Africa’s West Coast

Captain(s) Log: March 2020

We have been very privileged to take the path less travelled the last 8 months and move about with no destination or deadline in mind, and have big plans to take Mr J over to South America and continue the journey but with the world now sailing unchartered waters (April 2020) it is impossible to know if or when that may be possible. We have however learnt over this journey how little a person really needs, how simple life can be and that the simple pleasures are often the best pleasures so remain quietly optimistic that this will become possible. In the meantime we are staying isolated (as we hope you are) and doing our very small bit to “flatten the curve”. Stay safe everyone, Stuart & Tania

Travel Diary: Namibia (part 2)

In this second part of our Namibia travel diary we head to the coast and enjoy some long overdue beach and ocean time before getting onto the main tourist tracks through the Namib desert. Later on Mr. Jones gets a service in what will probably be the most remote dedicated Land Rover service station ever.

If you missed part 1 of the diary you can find it here: Namibia (part 1)

Leaving the desert behind we headed towards the coastal town of Swakopmund. Our first impressions were not great as the outskirts initially appear rather soulless but as you go deeper into town and closer to the beach it’s character changes and it turns into quite a nice little quaint seaside town. We chose to camp at Tiger Reef which despite some negative reviews on iOverlander turned out to be perfect as it allowed us to walk along the promenade, stop at a little food caravan and enjoy an awesome lunch of Calamari and Kabeljou followed by a little more exploration of the beachfront. Having had a rather fulling lunch we enjoyed sundowners (followed by a cheese and ham sandwich back at Mr J) on the restaurant deck adjacent to the camp, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean which was the perfect end to the day.

Turning our noses north for a bit we headed for the start of the Skeleton coast and the Cape Cross seal colony. The stark landscapes while never going to be able to hold us for long are beautiful in their barrenness and isolation, over the years many a ship has been wrecked along this coastline with usually disastrous consequences for the crew because even if you make it ashore your chances of survival would be minimal. This though is not the reason for the Skeleton coast name, that in fact comes from the many whales who have run aground here.

The seal colony at Cape Cross reserve is quite a site (and smell!!) to behold with hundreds of seals frolicking in the water and thousands on the land calling to each other and climbing over themselves. The birthing period is December to January so we were fortunate to see many baby seals, most of whom appeared to be on their own. The moms go out to sea for up to seven days and then return to feed the pups, how they find each other when Mom returns to shore is unfathomable to our brains but certainly probably has something to do with all the calling that was taking place, we can best describe it as being in the middle of thousand strong herd of goats. Apart from sights and noise the other thing that takes your breath away is the smell or more accurately the stench, it seeps into everything and upon getting to our camp spot later we needed to urgently wash both ourselves and our clothes.

Bizarrely the Portuguese explorer (Diago Cao) chose this point to come ashore in 1484 and plant a cross in an attempt to claim the land for Portugal, one would assume the seals were nesting at this point even back then so why he chose this smelly spot and not a few kilometres in either direction is a bit baffling unless the seals provided an easy source of protein and fat?

Mr Jones has been very good to us on this trip, there have been a few niggles here and there, which is to be expected considering his age and what he has been put through, but most of our maintenance log entries are non-him related. Stuart gives him a brief looking over and under most days but hadn’t done so since leaving Windhoek and so we got rather lucky that when reaching under to disconnect the grey water bucket he noticed a very loose nut on the rear suspension linkage. If that had come off while driving it could have got ugly! Fortunately, a quick tightening sorted it out and we were ready to hit the road but not before a new item was added to the “South Africa shopping list”, the correct size (#30) spanner.

From the coast we headed inland to Spitzkoppe which is often referred to as the Matterhorn of Namibia. The main massif rises high above the desert and is visible from many miles away. In the 90’s it was a climbing spot Stuart dreamt of visiting and climbing but at that stage it was not too be. While checking in the receptionist was complaining about how dry it is, we assured her that now that we had arrived she could definitely expect rain, lo and behold that night we got a big thunderstorm. The camping is quite organised with designated sites amongst the boulders and outcrops, each has a long drop toilet but no other facilities so we were most grateful for our onboard outdoor shower.

After a very relaxed morning hanging around the camp at Spitzkoppe we took a leisurely drive westwards and back to Swakopmund with the intention of spending the weekend there and enjoying some beach time. Unusually so we both woke quite early on the Sunday, so before heading down to the beach, Stuart jacked the car up, removed wheels, checked brakes and greased all the steering and prop-shaft nipples. While we have been doing small preventative maintenance on the road it has been 10 000km since his last service in Nairobi. The changing of oil will have to wait a little while but as Mr J has a mysterious ability to make oil disappear and require top-up’s every 1000km this is not too much of a worry.

The rest of Sunday was spent down on the beach, broken up with lunch from the same food caravan we had visited previously as the calamari and fish was just too good last time not to revisit.

In contrast to the day before we made a latish start when leaving Swakopmund, initially making a short detour via Walvis Bay to see if the Flamingoes were in the bay and then westwards on the C14 to once again traverse the Namib Nauklift park. However compared to our previous eastwards traverse on the C28 which was incredibly scenic we found the scenery a bit bland and boring this time around, our lack of enjoyment was not helped by at least half the 250km covered being on bone jarring corrugations. Based on the number of rental 4×4’s coming towards us all day we were clearly now on the main tourist route. Turning off the dirt road towards our overnight stop (Sossus on Foot) we were not too hopeful but pleasantly surprised as after a few kilometres the road all of sudden drops before you into a little valley and a small oasis with a few campsites looking out of over the vast landscape. As we were the only people camping and it was so hot we opted once again to setup the outdoor shower and enjoy a refreshing shower next to Mr Jones in the early evening.

On arrival at Sesriem the following morning we decided to first go and buy a permit for our next day’s visit into the Park (Sossusvlei) which caused much confusion both at the gate and at reception. It turns out the standard practice is to arrive at the gate on the day of entry, obtain an entry number, visit the Sossusvlei dunes and then only pay for your permit when exiting – hence the confusion as to why we wanted to buy it the day before but nobody told us this and we only learnt of the “standard” practice the following morning when sitting in the queue of cars at the gate.

On iOverlander we had read of a campsite (Sossus Oasis) being located behind the fuel station just outside the park entry gate so given that it was behind a petrol station we were not expecting much but fortunately were pleasantly surprised. Each site had a covered shade area and own ablutions with a semi outdoor shower plus there was a lovely little swimming pool located in the centre of the ring of campsites. Because we had stopped at Sossus on Foot the day before and therefore only had had a short hop into Sesriem we arrived long before the campsite filled up so the hammocks got strung up next to the pool and we settled in for an afternoon of G&T’s, reading and swimming.

The towering red dunes around Sesriem and at Sossusvlei are the iconic landscape picture which usually appears in any kind tourism literature for the country. Added to that is the stark contrasts of, and thus heavily photographed, Dood vlei (Dead Vlei) with its white clay floor, dead trees and red dunes as a back drop. The best time to photograph all of this is in the early morning but with the dunes being 60km inside the park and the gates only opening at sunrise it makes for quite the bun fight, once again as with the gorillas a few months ago we got to witness the worst side of the dog eat dog nature of many human beings. Despite this we did enjoy our time in the dunes trying to take artistic pictures of the trees but left knowing that we also prefer the hidden gems off the beaten track rather than the “must see” spots as per standard guidebooks.

For interest sake the trees are believed to have died 900+ years ago when the Tsauchab river path was cut-off by the shifting sand and have subsequently been preserved in their present form due to the aridity of the environment and thus the absence of wood boring insects.

Having taken our pictures and driven the 60km back out of the park by 11:00 in the morning we decided to head further south rather than spend another day “behind the fuel station”. Tania’s good friend, Emma, had sent us an article on some lilies which were flowering near Maltohoe after the recent rains and with that only being 120km away we programmed the GPS for that. It was a lovely drive, firstly because it would seem that as soon as we headed south we got off the main tourist track with once again lovely quite roads and secondly the scenery shifted from a moon landscape to more of a Karoo one which while barren has a lot of variety in terms of hills and plant life. Our sense of humor did however get tested at the end of the day when we headed down a small farm track to what was meant to be a wonderful camping spot only to find after 8km a locked farm gate. Once we had reversed our route and got back to the main dirt road Tania managed to slip in the mud while opening the final gate, rather funny afterwards but not at the time.

Unfortunately, viewing the lilies was not to be as they only flower for 4 short days after the first heavy rains and had disappeared a few days before we arrived. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

One advantage of our failed search for the lilies is that we got to drive along the valley between Maltahoe and Aus as this valley was absolutely spectacular, we nicknamed it the “valley of colours”. The landscape and plants/grasses changed constantly from whites, greys, reds, greens, yellows and various shades of brown making the 200km journey an absolute pleasure.

Basing ourselves at Klein Aus Vista we made the 240km round trek to Lüderitz and the ghost town of Kolmanskop. Approaching Ludertitz we had in the back of our minds that we had read that the Kolmanskop guided tours only took place until 13:00 so decided to stop there first which was very fortunate cause in fact they appeared to only have 2 guided tours per morning. The first takes place at 9:30 and the second at 11:00 and we arrived at 10:45. If you miss the tour you are welcome to walk around yourself but we don’t think you will get the same appreciation for the monumental effort that was required to both build and maintain the town when it was “alive”, as a plus the tour is free and included in your entry fee. For information purposes, access to the site closes at 13:00 unless you have a pre-arranged photographic permit.

Kolmanskop was founded in 1908 when diamonds were accidentally discovered while building the railway inland from Lüderitz and so began a diamond rush which kept the town alive for nearly 30 years, constantly fighting the encroachment of the desert and surviving despite the harshest of elements, for instance: all water was shipped in from Cape Town which is nearly 800km’s to the south.

After the tour we strolled around for a bit , taking pictures but with midday approaching it was baking hot and walking in slops on soft hot sand soon had us bailing for the cool ocean breeze which Lüderitz enjoys just over the hills to the west.

A number of times in the last few days we had heard of the camping spot at Shark “Island” but most people had put us off by telling us it was windswept and not very pleasant, plus being overpriced, so out of curiosity we drove out too it upon our arrival in Lüderitz. It is definitely overpriced but what a stunning location it enjoys wedged on a peninsula overlooking the Atlantic on the one side and the tiny protected natural harbour of Luderitz on the other, with many large rocky outcrops you could park behind for wind protection. We instantly regretted leaving some of our gear at Klein Aus as it would have been nice to spend a night there.

We have not had occasion to eat out much on the entire trip as all too often in the places we stayed the offerings are only overpriced burgers or pizzas, but we thoroughly enjoyed a little lunch of cheddar cheese meatballs on ciabatta with salad at the little deli opposite the Spar in town. With full stomachs we drove a little north to check out the views before parking on the beachfront to catch up on some social media time – the cell signal through the desert has naturally been mostly non-existent.

Having caught up on the latest cat, coffee, dog and corona virus posts we hit the road for the long and very straight drive back across the desert to Klein Aus Vista, with only one small detour to look at a few of the wild horses drinking at a waterhole close to the main road. The exact origin of these feral wild horses is unknown but they have been roaming wild and incredibly surviving in the desert for over 100 years. Their ongoing survival does look a lot more assured with the establishment of this permanent waterhole.

With all our mileage the last 1,5 months Mr Jones was a little overdue for an oil change which while we could do that ourselves, thanks to the not-so-brilliant placement by Land Rover of the oil filter it is a rather messy job and so best done at a proper workshop. On a farm 60km south of Keetmanshoop is a highly regarded Landy mechanic (Johann Strauss) and so we headed there but once again our timing with regards servicing was not great in respect to it being a weekend. We therefore broke the journey eastwards up with a night in Keetmanshoop which also gave time for shopping for supplies, before heading out to the farm on the Sunday afternoon.

Our intention was to have a quick oil change done on the Monday morning and then move on but from the daily monitoring we do on the road Stuart did have a few items he wanted to ask Johann about, one of these was what looked like some movement in the left engine mount rubber. Upon closer inspection it turned out that in fact the engine mount was broken and so a quick service turned into a long day of lifting the engine to remove and replace mounts with the inevitable small hiccups like a seized nut on the exhaust manifold and then a broken stud bolt. Thankfully by early evening everything was in place and a few other miscellaneous items had been fixed.

One of the miscellaneous items was fitting a rubber grommet seal on the rear prop-shaft, when the original plastic cover had perished in Tanzania Stuart had used zip ties to hold the individual seals together which has worked surprisingly well. A good quantity of Zip ties is an essential toolbox item. While all this went on Tania read her kindle, entertained the farm Jack Russell and played dodgem with the sun as she moved her chair between Land Rovers and workshop buildings.

The longer service time meant we spent another night camped on the farm but we weren’t complaining as we had found a lovely spot a kilometre or so from the farmhouse to enjoy the peace and quite of being literally in the middle of nowhere.

The following morning while settling the bill we had a lovely kuier (chat) with Johan and his wife and received all sorts of farm treats before heading off on our journey again. Who knows where else in the world we may end up servicing or fixing Mr Jones but this certainly was unique and a lovely service experience.

Our plan from the farm was to head south to the Fish River Canyon with an overnight stop at the Canyon Roadhouse but upon being allocated a disappointingly bare and sandy campsite right on top of a much larger group we made the quick decision to carry on to view the actual canyon before carrying on further south to camp on the Orange river instead. This turned a planned short day into a rather long one and upon arrival at Norotshama river resort it was an easy decision to stay a couple of nights and take a long overdue rest day.

Being on the orange river meant we had reached the bottom of Namibia and on the 12 March, we crossed back into SA exactly 7 months since leaving Johannesburg and normal life. The adventure and journey is far from over, in fact it is just beginning as we still have so much to see and do so don’t unsubscribe just yet.

The Orange river turning orange at sunset

Links to other parts of the blog relevant to our time in Namibia:

Gallery: Namibia

Captain(s) Log: February 2020 A glimpse into the daily emotions of life on the road as we crossed Zambia and then Namibia

Maintenance Log: The usual list of items requiring maintenance in order to keep ourselves and Mr Jones on the road

Travel Diary: Namibia (part 1)

Namibia is a large country and as we covered many miles within it this latest travel diary is quite lengthy, and so for hopefully easier reading we have split it into 2 parts. Below is part one, the second part will follow shortly. The usual photo gallery and maintenance log will also follow in part 2. Happy reading….

The Katima Mulilo border post into Namibia while rather chaotic with loads of trucks was really really simple and we were probably through in under 30minutes. Even the money changing tout seemed to good to be true, giving Stuart a 1:1 exchange rate with the Kwacha and appearing to not make any money from the transaction apart from the tip we offered because we felt bad about the deal.

Five kilometres from the border post is a Protea hotel which offers lovely camp on a grassed terrace above the Zambezi river, with each parking area having an electric plug point and braai area and not for an exorbitant fee. It was very obvious that we were back in Southern Africa and so still feeling the effects of the drive down through western Tanzania and Zambia, we opted to stay an extra day and relax by the hotel pool. Our rain god/goddess status continued when we were 5 minutes too late in packing up by the pool and got drenched by a huge afternoon thunderstorm.

We have complained about the first and last few hundred kilometres of road in Zambia being horrible whereas in Namibia the roads are just fantastic smooth tar but that in itself does have its dangers as the road westwards through the Caprivi Strip is generally pan flat and dead straight making boredom for the driver a very real threat. Luckily HippySquared’s CEO (Chief Entertainment Officer) is a pretty dab hand on the iPod and keeps us occupied with great tunes.

In the early days Stuart would plan a couple of days of routes in advance using the mapping software on the MacBook and then transfer them to the GPS but since Malawi and discovering iOverlander we have generally not planned more than a day in advance. On this day our intended overnight stop was Ngepi camp on the Kavango river, as it looked very funky with many artistic touches which appealed to us. However about 40kms from it we drove past a sign for White Sands and Popa falls, the falls were a spot Stuart had read about previously and so we decided to first go and check them out. Our arrival at the entry gate had us rather slack jawed given its luxurious look, complete with a guard radioing through to the reception to let them know he had guests at the gate “without a booking”. We were dubious if it was a spot for us but when they offered to upgrade us to a luxury site (private ablutions and own viewing deck over the falls) for the same price as the normal camping rate, we decided to stay.

Over the next few days we moved steadily westwards initially along the Caprivi strip and then just across the top of “mainland” Namibia. For those that aren’t familiar with it, the Caprivi is a little strip of land sandwiched between Angola, Zambia and Botswana but being part of Namibia. In total we would eventually travel 1200km across the top of Namibia never venturing much more than 50km from its northernmost border. Valentine’s Day was spent at Kaisosi lodge were again we had the luxury of private ablutions and got to enjoy date night on their deck overlooking the Kavango river with Angola only 100m away.

In a classic case of “never judge a book” by its cover we pulled into Woodlands campsite on the outskirts of Eenhana and were immediately underwhelmed with what essentially was a fenced off sandy lot with some shacks on the outskirts BUT the security guard/receptionist/manager (whose English was not great) made us feel so welcome that almost instantly our impressions changed. After the long day in the car, Tania made the inevitable dash to the loo and come back beaming with a report that the ablutions were practically brand new with a fresh coat of paint, toilet paper (so often lacking) and even soap at the basins. How wrong our first impressions where!

That night we enjoyed a lovely fire courtesy of the free firewood only to wake the next morning to torrential rain and lightning, by now we are very used to both but even this was a bit much for us and so our early start was delayed until we thought the downpour had subsided a little.

In Zambia we had picked up a nasty vibration in the steering at any speed above 90km/h which while we generally only drive at 80 made overtaking sometimes rather interesting. Stuart had found play in the front prop-shaft and we had spent the weekend in Livingstone so that Mr J could be looked at by a Landy mechanic on the Monday. Foleys had in fact diagnosed the issue as not being the UJ but rather the sliding joint on the front prop-shaft having some play. As they did not have a replacement and one would have to be couriered in, they applied lots of grease as an interim fix which certainly seemed to do the job. Since then we had been checking for increased play on a daily basis and applying grease. All was going well and Stuart’s mind was at ease until on our way to Ruacana Falls we come across a stricken Landy on the side of the road, upon stopping to see if we could be of assistance we found out their front prop-shaft had come off/disintegrated and in the process damaged the gearbox. They were going nowhere without a flat-bed tow truck and many little demons crept into Stuart’s mind for him to dwell on as we drove further.

In the east along the Caprivi strip the Kavango river forms a natural border with Angola and flows into Botswana to ultimately form the Okavango swamps. As you head west you get the Kunene river which also originates in the Angolan highlands, flows south for 600km before turning westwards to create the border with Namibia and continue its journey for another 300km to the Atlantic Ocean. Ruacana is the point where it turns westwards and also were the river plunges 120m down a cliff face to create the Ruacana Falls. Most of the year the falls are dry due to a dam just upstream and diversions for Namibia’s main hydropower electricity source but in particularly wet rainy seasons the sluice gates are opened and Ruacana Falls return to the majesty they had before the dam was built. We had read that at the end of December the falls were still dry but now in mid-February they were in full flow and what a sight it was! While they don’t have the sheer drop and narrow gorge that gives Victoria falls its splendor they are in our opinion equally spectacular. The total width of the falls is 700m, with a 120m drop and apparently a flow rate of 2400 cubic metres per second when we were there.

Video of the falls in flood

The downside of such an impressive spectacle is that the river downstream had burst its banks, flooding many campsites and the dirt road that follows it closely. Initially we attempted to head downstream but after crossing one flooded section of road and almost immediately coming across another which looked much deeper we decided we had had enough recent adventures with mud and water so turned around to look for an alternative camping spot. Heading back we flagged down a few other 4×4’s to inform them of the road status and one couple decided to follow us to the alternative camping. They were driving a new Toyota Landcruiser so Stuart felt it only right to inform them that we drive pretty slowly to which they had replied they were also slow, incredibly they where or rather their Toyota was and Mr J outpaced them on a few of the hills leading out of the valley – GO MR JONES!

iOverlander once again had come to our rescue as the alternative spot was not marked on Tracks4Africa, and while we had read in the reviews that everyone was super impressed with the welcome they received we were still suitably impressed when we drove up with no forward warning and were greeted by a welcome committee carrying wet towels and fresh glasses of orange juice.

Stuart had really wanted to visit Epupa falls and perhaps part of the Marienflus valley (a really remote and rugged section of Namibia’s North West but sadly the combination of the Kunene river flooding and the wonky front prop-shaft just did not make it a realistic option. In addition the accumulated effect of many long days driving since we left Rwanda was starting to take its toll, a sure indication was when we started snapping at each other over silly and irrelevant things. Thus with Epupa off the cards and needing to get to Windhoek for prop-shaft repairs we began looking for a spot where we could relax for a few days.

Onguma game lodge was just what the doctor ordered, it is a large game reserve bordering Etosha and has a number of very luxurious accommodation offerings together with two camping areas and even these camping spots have a lodge feel. The loungers at the pool all have lovely cushions, the restaurant is very tastefully decorated and each campsite is well spaced from each other together with private ablutions.

Our first day was spent doing nothing more than lounging by the pool and when the weather turned grey on the second, we ventured into Etosha National Park. Sadly with it being so wet the game viewing in Etosha wasn’t great and neither was the scenery with it being so gloomy, nonetheless it was a worthwhile excursion. The day however did not end well as when we got back to camp we found that the frozen meat we had left in the lodges care while in the park had been put in the fridge and not freezer so was partially defrosted (CAPTAINS LOG: 19 February), which leaves us with many days of meat to now cook in advance.

As we headed south from Etosha we passed a number of people selling giant mushrooms on the side of the road, Tania had read that they only appear at this time of the year after the rains and inevitably we stopped to check one out. When the small one (but plenty large enough for us) was offered at a price of only ZAR5, we quickly purchased it with the small change on hand. That night we overnighted on a tiny wine farm (yes in the middle of Namibia) and the farmer’s wife kindly told us how to cook it. The mushroom is known as Omajowa and is a Namibian delicacy which grows on termite hills and is only available for a few short days after the summer rains. Our small mushroom provided us with three meals and was absolutely delicious, leaving us with only one regret: we should have bought more when we could as further south we did not see them offered again.

The weekend was approaching and as we weren’t sure how long it would take to repair the prop-shaft we decided the most pragmatic plan would be to be in Windhoek for Sunday evening/Monday morning and that way leave plenty of time for any repairs that may require parts brought in etc. With this in mind we chose to spend a few nights 50km west of the main road at a spot called Ovita Wildlife camp, which while nothing spectacular was lovely and isolated but incredibly had decent 3G reception which allowed us to just relax but at the sometime sort out a few admin topics back home. Naturally the farmer was very happy to host us as we brought much needed rain, something they had not had since 2013!

After a leisurely start on the Sunday morning we enjoyed a lovely drive into Windhoek along little district roads, occasionally stopping to make sure a flooded drift was drivable or to just marvel at the carpet of wild flowers that had sprung up with the rains. Thank goodness we changed Mr J’s bull bar flowers from red to yellow a few weeks back as he now matched the summer theme.

Monday morning saw us up bright and early to traverse across Windhoek (all 5km as the crow flies) to the industrial side in order to get the prop-shaft seen too. Stuart had enquired on the “overland forum”, an email community he has belonged to for many years, for recommendations and Propshaft Master was the general consensus as the go-to guys. They did not disappoint and within a couple of hours we had a “newly” (part the old one and part new pieces) made up and installed on Mr J. At least now a certain someone can stop stressing at each vibration Mr J gives off as we travel!

With 3/4 of the day still in front of us, the next item on the list was a haircut and color for Tania, the receptionist at Propshaft Master had given us a recommendation for “BE Hair academy”, so off across town we went. Pulling into the spot google maps had taken us too we immediately had doubts as it was a very swanky boutique hotel with accompanying restaurants, cafes and conference rooms, added to which Mr J would not fit into any parking areas as he is 2,6m high with the roof box on so well above the general height restriction of must undercover garages of 2,2m. While trying to figure out what to do the hotels concierge appeared at the window and when we told him we were looking for the hair place he offered us the VIP parking spot and showed us the way to the hairdresser.

As an added bonus Stuart got a haircut too, the first in 9 months but even then it only took a half hour whereas Tania was going to be a while… So once done he headed out to tick off a few more errands. We have not bumped into them but have observed on social media that Land Rover have a fleet of the new very larney Defenders running around Namibia doing all sorts of camel trophy stuff and proving their worth for the motoring media. When returning to collect Tania after a few hours Stuart observed that one of the conference rooms was being setup for Land Rover which we surmise was to welcome back the now bush worthy vehicles and their contingent, what a pity we were probably only a day too earlier to have witnessed this and to have parked MR J amongst them. Perhaps the #MrJonesFanclub could have gained a few more members?

From Windhoek we headed west towards the coast and Swakopmund via the exceptionally scenic C28 dirt road which crosses the Khomas Hochland. It probably looks quite different for most of the year but given the recent rains we were treated to spectacular mountains and valleys covered in yellow flowers with green bushes interspersing this but then as we descended over the Bosun Pass it dramatically changed to initially a dry and barren scrubland and then finally a total moonscape. Naturally many stops were made for photos, although it is very difficult to capture the grandeur and starkness in a photo, and each time we stopped all you could hear was silence. In nearly 300km we saw only 6 other vehicles.

About 100km from Swakopmund a small diversion (provided you have arranged a permit from the MET office in Windhoek) from the C28 takes you past the Tinklas and Bloedkoppie camp areas which are basically just allocated spots in the desert where you can camp. The silence is once again all-encompassing and it is quite possible to hear yourself think. Our chosen overnight spot was Bloedkoppie which is so named because the very large granite koppie often glows pink/red in the setting sun. Having learnt a thing or two from Jocelyn (Tania’s gorilla trekking porter) in terms of how to haul a not so keen hiker/climber up or down hills, Stuart managed to get Tania up one of the smaller granite domes for sunset drinks and back down again without even a whimper from the latter party. The coming down part may have been aided by a glass of wine on top and the impending dusk….

The day ended perfectly with a visit to our campfire by two tiny little Bat Eared foxes, clearly used to humans but still very skittish they kept us amused for quite a while before we turned in for the night.

Link to: Namibia Travel Diary: Part 2

Captain(s) Log: February 2020

Our Captains log is a capture of some of the random thoughts, frustrations and experiences we go through as we travel along. This months version certainly has plenty of ups and downs as we ticked off big mileage to escape the rains. These log entries cover our very quick jaunt through Zambia and then some of our time in Namibia.

1 February

A day of staring 5m to 200m ahead, dodging potholes & passing trucks with 1/2 m spare between us while balancing Mr J tyres on the edge of the squiggly road edge. B@£* tired! Uuurgh Zambia!

2 February

For f@!ks sake. While having a soak in the natural hot springs this morning before hitting the road, we heard a tree crashing down nearby. When we got back to Mr Jones it had fallen next to and partially on him.

5 February

The joy of simple things! Finding a Shoprite that has wine (still box though) and all other items at close to South Africa prices (first time in 6months) and tonight having a shower with decent lighting, enough space to change and plenty hot water (a rarity the last couple of weeks).

9 February

While not ideal as there is not much to do here and it has rained almost constantly, a couple of forced down days while we wait out the weekend to visit a mechanic has been really good for us. Feeling nice and relaxed.

10 February

Rain all night and then packing up in the mud has us both feeling grumpy this morning. Also for some strange reason we don’t have too much confidence in the mechanic even though he is highly recommended which leaves us anxious about that too. In the end he was in fact great.

11 February

In Namibia and we have sunshine, could this be the end of our “load shedding”? So glad we dashed westwards yesterday after a brief hospital trip for Mr J.

For context to to the above entries, see the Zambia Travel Diary

12 February

Aaah the joys of proper campsites! 2 weeks ago we were paying the same to camp on a pile of rubble in the backyard of a hotel, today we have our own ablutions, wash-up area, grass and a private viewing deck over the Popa falls on the Kavango river.

15 February

Continually confused over what time it is the last few days?? As we are on the border with Angola the phones are constantly changing time zones, often making us think it is an hour earlier than it actually is. We assume the phones GPS keeps confusing which country we are in…

17 February

The long days and often not great roads of the last month are taking it’s toll, both been snappy at each other, which we never are so a sure sign down time is needed! Crazy to think 1 month ago we were tracking gorillas and now we are well into Namibia. Today’s camp on edge of Etosha feels good and while a little pricey looks like it will keep us for a few days and give us that needed rest.

18 February

A lovely relaxed day, spent lounging by the pool reading and catching up on blog etc. Glad we stopped here.

19 February

So annoyed and frustrated! We left our frozen red meat in the care of the lodge due to the foot & mouth disease controls Etosha has in place and THEY PUT IT IN THE FRIDGE. So when we got back after the day in the park, 2 weeks of meals had defrosted. GRRRR!

20 February

Marathon cooking session of mince to save the defrosted meat, followed by some great chilli con carne. All done while riding out a massive thunderstorm sitting inside Mr J, thank goodness once again for the Icarus roof conversion.

23 February

Very relieved! Been nursing a wonky propshaft with a daily greasing schedule for the last 2000km, hopefully can get it fixed/a new one now that we have made it to Windhoek.

24 February

Productive day, propshaft sorted, first haircuts in many months and some shopping done.

26 February

Pleasantly surprised by Swakopmund, had a lovely lunch on promenade followed by walk and sundowners on the Tiger reef deck

28 February

Dodged a bullet this morning! While disconnecting the grey water bucket, noticed a space in the bushes for the rear lower suspension link. The nut had come seriously loose and was almost off – must be due to all the corrugations last few days and with all the driving I (Stuart) been a bit lazy last few days in checking Mr J over.

Travel Diary: Rwanda

Rwanda you blew our socks off! Although we only spent 10 days in Rwanda it currently ranks as our favorite country on this journey (after Mozambique for which we just have a soft spot). Every hour of every single day something impressed us, whether it be the proud and functioning civil society; the communities caring for each other; Happy children running with a bounce in their step, How random adults will help small little children (dressed in neat school uniforms) to cross the road; Adults moving about with vigor, Pretty gardens everywhere; Zero litter or even leaves in gutters, Smooth roads with fresh paint markings throughout. We could go on and on but really it has to be seen to be appreciated.

Our border crossing at Cyanika was perhaps even easier than the one from Tanzania to Kenya a couple of months ago and already on the Uganda side we got a taste of what to expect, money touts who politely asked if we needed money and didn’t hassle us when we said no but rather helped us navigate the various buildings you are required to visit in order to cancel the Carnet and get stamped out. Once through the Uganda side you need to remember to cross over the road as Rwanda is a Right Hand Drive country.

Rwanda is a land of curves and passes which naturally means stunning scenery but also slow driving and so the 120km’s to Kigali took quite sometime but we weren’t complaining as we marvelled at the scenery or how in the middle of nowhere there would be somebody tidying up a little section of the road. We probably drove over 5 -6 mountain passes and on each one we saw small pelotons of cyclists out training, we doubt it will be long until Rwanda has a cyclist challenging for the polka dot jersey in the Tour de France.

Wonderfully clean and well mantained roads

Another sign that the country is more advanced was upon entering Kigali and noticing how all the BodoBoda riders have helmets on, including their passengers, that and the fact that the traffic lights not only work but have count down timers on them. The traffic however is still pretty chaotic which combined with driving on the “wrong side” of the road means you need to be super vigilant. One of Stuart’s ex-colleagues (Dion Thompson) had kindly invited us to stay with him so we quickly stopped at his house and loaded up the washing machine before heading out to find a supermarket, bank and place to obtain a local SIM card.

Over the next 4 days, courtesy of Dions wonderful hospitality we got to see how vibrant, modern and metropolitan Kigali is. This is something we would have no doubt missed out on if just on our own. Of course no visit to Rwanda is complete without visiting the various genocide museums and so while Dion was at work we took ourselves off to the Genocide Memorial monument. The tour makes for a very emotional and quite draining 4hours. It is absolutely horrific to see the atrocities and hatred mankind is capable of and how the world pretty much looked the other way while it took place but then on the other hand it is amazing to witness how the country and people have rebuilt themselves over the last 25 years and in fact overtaken all of their neighbors in terms of development.

Perhaps due to a lack of planning (or because it doesn’t really matter whether you have carefully plotted a route or not when traveling like this) upon leaving Dion we ended up driving back over the some mountain passes we had crossed on our way in. Our destination was Red Rocks campsite on the way to Gisenyi, which one review in iOverlander describes it as “the most backpackeresque place we have been to in Africa. It ticks all the boxes with graffiti, guests with dreadlocks and weed smoke”, as well as that they support the local arts community and have a small recording studio on site. So we were expecting something different but it exceeded our expectations as Mr Jones got a starring role in a music video shoot. #MrJonesFanClub

When we arrived a crew was busy setting up to film a love song by a Rwandan artist called Edouce Softman, after shooting the first scene the videographer come over too admire Mr Jones and to ask if we would mind if they took a few shots with him as the background. Who are we to say No! Over the next 4 hours they shot various scenes and now we are holding thumbs to see if Mr Jones makes the final cut for his song “Ni Wowe”.

Our own #behindthescenes video of Edouce Softman: Ni Wowe

After the excitement of the film shoot a few days of relaxation on the shores of Lake Kivu was called for. Lake Kivu as with many of the other Rift Valley lakes is just huge, covering over 2700 square kilometres and being more then 450m deep. Across it’s waters is the Democratic Republic of Congo which is a stark reminder of how one country can rise up in 25 years and another can just slip further into darkness.

The drive around the lake and down to the camping areas we stayed at once again provided many slack jawed moments as we marveled at the scenery and tidiness of the rural areas. Most of the lake’s shoreline consists of steep hills covered in tropical forest, with little coves everywhere and the water dotted with multiple tiny islands. If we had to choose to live on a lake this one would currently be top contender.

Of course the campsites were once again nothing special and usually a study in contrasts, such as our first two nights were we camped in the backyard of a small guesthouse next to the staff kitchen and had a nightly audience to our own food preparation. In fairness they probably sat on that wall every night and chatted, we and Mr J just added something new to talk about. The stark contrast is evident as you step around the building onto the lakeshore and the most stunning views.

Further down the lake, we stayed in the grounds of a hotel but for a change we weren’t in the back and probably had the best view of all, parked down on the lakeshore lawns were lunch and drinks were served for the hotel guests. Of course Mr Jones did his best to grab the limelight, this time Stuart snapped a pic back of another fan club member as they passed by on a water taxi. A few minutes later Mr Jones latest fan club members (Francois & Benoit) had disembarked and had invited themselves on a tour of our living quarters.

Snapping “back” a member of Mr J fan club

A common activity that many lodges and campgrounds (throughout Africa) offer is a “cultural tour” of the local village where they take you on a walk through the village and you get to see and take pictures of the villagers going about their daily business, this has got us to thinking that perhaps we should create our own activities list: USD5 for a pic of us and Mr J or USD10 for a “cultural tour of him. If we had done this from the start we could have avoided drinking box wine or alternatively paid for half the trip by now. #MrJonesFanClub

Leaving Lake Kivu and the little town of Kibuye the Rwanda slack jawed moment’s continued, this time because the road deteriorated and was a potholed and gravel mess equalled with scruffy villages. The contrast to the Rwanda we had got used was so stark that it almost felt like this little section had been neglected or overlooked in Rwanda’s rejuvenation. Why would this be when the rest of the country has come so far? Also the people in the area generally appeared poorer and more apathetic, is that a sign of what poor infrastructure does?

Our intended destination for the day was a spot about 100km short of the Tanzania border so that we could get across the border early and have plenty of time to deal with what we had heard were terrible roads on the Tanzania side. To get there though we had to pass through Kigali once again and so having found a German butchery previously who supplied good quality and reasonably priced meat we made a stop to fill-up the freezer.

Since entering Rwanda we had noticed a small vibration coming through the car usually when powering up a hill or riding against the gears on a downhill and as we left Kigali this seemed to be getting worse so upon arriving at our overnight destination the rest of the daylight hours were spent trying to diagnose the issue. Not having a wealth of mechanical knowledge can make figuring out such issues a challenge but thanks to modern technology it is certainly easier these days. Having spotted some suspicious items Stuart sent off an email to the mechanic who has maintained Mr j over the years hoping to get a reply even though it was approaching 5pm on a Friday, thankfully Marc come back quickly with some advice. In the meantime a very suspect Universal Joint on the rear prop shaft was found and as it was now rather late, we turned to a Landrover facebook group and searched past discussions. This seemed to confirm that it was most likely the UJ causing the vibrations which fortunately we are carrying a spare for. The next days planned border crossing was scrapped for a maintenance day.

At first we attempted to do the repair ourselves but after struggling with the prop shaft bolts Stuart called it quits and we decided to rather take a slow drive back to Kigali and find a garage their. A call was made to Dion to see if he could find a suitable garage and in doing so we discovered it was UMUGANDA day and therefore everything would be closed until 11.

Umaganda which loosely means “coming together in common purpose to achieve an outcome” is a mandatory program on the last Saturday of each month which has been in place for the last 10 years. From 8:00 to 11:00 all businesses are closed, cars are kept off the streets and Rwandans come together in their neighbourhood to try and make it a little bit better than it was the month before. The evidence speaks for itself although it is not without some controversy as a lack of participation can result in a fine or even arrest.

We had just resigned ourselves to sitting on the side of the road waiting for 11:00 when a singular car drove past so we decided to risk it and follow, a few kilometres down the road at a traffic circle the police pulled over the Rwandan car but allowed us to pass. It turns out that while on Umaganda day Rwandans may not drive prior to 11:00 foreigners can and so for most of the journey back into Kigali we enjoyed blissfully quite roads. Upon arriving back in Kigali we had not yet heard back from Dion so first tried two garages marked on iOverlander but both were closed for the weekend, thankfully shortly thereafter Dions contacts come through with a garage that was open.

Mr Service Ltd is located down a dingy backroad and the first impression of the yard is not great but the Turkish owner and his staff were super helpful and professional and in just over an hour they had removed and refitted the prop shaft. Once again #MrJonesFanClub emerged, this time in the context of a small bidding contest between the owner and one of his customers for an offer on Mr Jones. We had a guaranteed offer of USD30k for him, not bad considering he is 25 years old, and an off the charts one of USD100k! Before temptation got the better of us we made a hasty retreat back to Dion’s house.

There didn’t seem any point overnighting once again closer to the border and so we made an early start from Dion’s knowing a long day was ahead of us, in the end it was 12 very eventful hours! The first drama of the day was a duplicate credit card transaction for fuel at a very smart Engen garage. We literally did not have a single franc in cash left on us so chose Engen as you could pay with your card but having driven away Stuart had a nagging suspicion that all was not in order, so an hour down the road we stopped and checked the banking app. Once again modern technology come into play as we chatted to the bank via the app on our phones and then filled in, signed and logged a dispute via the laptop and email. All done from the side of the road.

Once back on the road we were soon at the border only to be confronted with our next drama of the day, our stay in Rwanda was technically illegal! We had been given a 90 day stay upon entry and paid no visa fees, which it turns out is only allowed for those traveling on a diplomatic passport. After much back and forth we were told we had to go back to the Rwandan side of immigration, get a different stamp and pay for a visa. At any other African border post an issue like this would have opened us up to all sorts of potential issues but not in Rwanda were they were only intent on making sure the rules were applied correctly.

The border with Tanzania is a “one-stop” one but with offices on each side of a large river and depending on which direction you are going you use one or the other for both passport controls. In principle this works fine if you are heading in one direction only but in our case we now had to go against the flow of traffic twice in order to go back to Rwanda, get our visa and then back to Tanzania to follow normal emigration processes. Added to the above was that once all this was complete the Tanzanian official to whom we needed to pay road tax was on lunch and so we had to “wait”.

Leaving the border you are given one last reminder of the stark contrast between Rwanda and most other African countries, within 100m the road deteriorates into a potholed nightmare. As somebody prior to us had described it: “it is so bad the potholes resemble bomb craters”. More on that and the couple of remaining dramas for the day to follow in the Western Tanzania blog.

Africa is a beautiful continent and has much to offer but in our opinion for it to be truly wonderful, a giant leap forward is still required and Rwanda gave us a glimpse of how that may be even possible in the space of 2 decades. At the risk of repeating ourselves below is some of the impressions which really stood out as different to most of the other countries we have visited so far:

A proud and functioning civil society
Communities caring for each other
Happy children running with a bounce in their step
How random adults will help small little children (dressed in neat school uniforms) to cross the road
Adults moving about with vigor
Bicycles used as bicycles (even if transporting a load) and not just pushbikes
Productivity – Even in small or rural villages, people always appear busy, not just standing or sitting around talking away the day
Pretty gardens everywhere
Zero litter or even leaves in gutters
Somebody is always cleaning or tidying up the roadside (even on remote dirt roads)
Smooth roads with fresh paint markings throughout
Apart from the one exception, were road maintenance is required it is done by professional looking crews
A clean and smart capital city
A modern metropolitan and vibey culture in Kigali
Functioning street lights even in small towns
Traffic lights which work, have count down lights on them and are obeyed
Adherence to the law (Boda boda riders with helmets, water taxis with life jackets)
A society that partakes in physical activity for pleasure (cycling clubs, running groups, walking groups, basketball courts, etc)

For sure we did not spend long enough in Rwanda to get a holistic view of it and there must be negative sides to it as well nonetheless the positives made a big impression.

Links to other sections of the blog relating to our time in Rwanda:

Gallery: Rwanda

Practical Information: Rwanda

Captain(s) Log – January A glimpse into the emotions of life on the road

Maintenance log: A list of what it takes to keep us and Mr Jones on the road

Travel Diary: Tanzania

The latest edition of our travel diary, this one covers the month we have spent in Tanzania. In addition there are links to the picture galleries, our hopefully “practical info” pages for anybody perhaps planning a trip here in the near future and of course the obligatory maintenance log showing what has required attention.

Even though the Malawi/Tanzania border post (Kasumulu) is relatively small and we crossed on a Sunday it still was the typical African border post experience: Chaotic, slow, needing to source money via black market money changers as the ATM’s never seem to be working, negotiating for insurance, etc. On the positive side we seem to be getting better at not being swindled by the money changers, this time Stuart insisted on them giving the exact rate quoted by the Tanzanian Revenue service fee receipt and that they pay the authorities direct, only then do they get any USD from us.

Our first impressions as we left the border and started the climb up to Mbeya was of significantly less people density, less young children, less deforestation and far more open space with indigenous bush than Malawi. A very welcome change indeed. On the other side of the coin we encountered crazy driving and traffic on entering our first town (Mbeya), especially by the little tuk-tuks. Our first overnight stop was at Utengule Coffee lodge on the outskirts of Mbeya were we camped on the plantations helipad for 2 nights before starting our journey towards Dar es Salaam and the coast.

Not far out of Mbeya, Stuart got stopped for speeding, which he was in fact doing as he had sped up just 100m before the end of a 50 zone. The officer however only had a cellphone pic of the “offence” as the person manning the radar gun was situated 5km further back in a village. So began a rather long cat and mouse game as Stuart insisted on seeing the actual radar device, the operator then had to catch a motorbike taxi to bring it and in the process Stuart got to witness a number of under the table payments by the local offenders. This opened an opportunity to discuss the “issue” and in the end we drove away not having to payed anything but having learnt a lesson regarding where the speed zone ends exactly.

The distance from Mbeya to the coast is just over 800km but it took us 5 days, simply because after each day’s drive we felt we needed a rest day before tackling the next stage. The main reason for this is twofold, the speed limit constantly moves between 50 and 80km/h and then the rest of the road users are borderline crazy so the two combined require exceptional concentration levels. A best and worst case example of this driving is the video we captured of two fuel tankers overtaking us on a very steep downhill with blind bends ahead

The main highway to Dar passes through Mikumi National Park which means if you cruise along at a reasonable speed you have the opportunity to do some game viewing without paying the ridiculously overpriced Tanzanian park fees but perhaps the even better reason to game view is to ensure you do not accidentally knock over any animals as the fines are quite steep. We have no idea why a giraffe is more valuable than a lion but you most definitely don’t want to hit one of them.

As we had been warned by many that the traffic in Dar es Salaam is crazy and should be avoided at all costs, we turned North just before Dar and headed to a small town called Bagamoyo. Bagamoyo has a dark past as it was the main port for the ivory and slave trade in the 19th century, it was then the capital of German East Africa for a decade before that moved to Dar es Salaam. It has a small “stone town” of crumbling buildings from that time which we enjoyed a walk around until a short tropical downpour forced us to take cover inside the port entrance. The port is still very active with Dhow traffic as Bagamoyo is in fact closer to Zanzibar than Dar es Salaam

When pumping up our Stand-Up Paddleboard (SUP) in Malawi in order to paddle the lake in search of a spot to watch the Rugby World Cup quarter finals we had discovered a crack in the pump, Red Paddle (the SUP manufacturer) had been fantastic in sending out a new handle via courier for us. We had had that delivered to a colleague of Stuart’s brother and were planning to have to go into Dar to collect it but Benson was fantastic and brought it to Bagamoyo for us. Unfortunately the handle ended up not fitting so we arranged for another to be sent, this time for us to pick up in Nairobi.

We did however venture to the outskirts of Dar on one day in order to do some shopping and found a real gem of a shop called Shoppers Plaza. Normally we are a source of some fascination when we empty 5l water bottles into the water tank outside shops but this time we split up meat and repacked it for the freezer in the parking lot, boy did we attract a crowd. Much discussion was had about us in Swahili and all we could understand is that our “long safari” was being discussed, in Swahili safari means “to journey”.

In our initial trip ideas, a visit to Zanzibar was always on the cards but in the end we decided not to go across as firstly the current season of “short rains” is not ideal for visiting, secondly we would need to find a spot to store the car where we could it plugged into an electrical point so that our freezer didn’t defrost. It is not so easy to find such a spot that has reliable electiricity and will ensure it remains plugged. The final reason was we calculated a week in Zanzibar travelling independently would prove to be a rather pricey exercise and we could in fact get there cheaper flying from South Africa on a package trip.

So from Bagamoyo we decided to head up the coast a bit in the search of white sands and a spot to put down roots for a bit however to move only 80km north meant a 230km round trip, firstly going back inland and then back down to the coast as the alternative was traversing Sadaani National Park and we did not feel like paying USD140 just for that privilege. Not long after leaving Bagamoyo Stuart had another encounter with the Tanzanian traffic police and again dodged paying, this time by insisting on paying the official amount provided he could have a receipt and turning down offers for them to “help him out”. As luck would have it the receipt machine didn’t have signal (or perhaps this was by design) and so he was let off with a warning. It might appear like we are speedholics in Mr Jones which apart from being impossible it’s just that the police here are sneaky in the tactics to catch people. When chatting to other travellers the question always is how many fines have you paid versus warnings that you have been given by the traffic police, a form of cat and mouse that gets played out.

The trip turned even longer when the road back to the coast turned out to be 100km of dirt made very slow due to the many ruts recently ripped up by vehicles due to the unseasonal heavy rains the area has recently had. For the last 10km we wondered if the camp was even operational as the road kept getting narrower and often felt like little more than a footpath so we were delighted to find Barry’s Beach Lodge open but instantly disappointed when we saw the beach was littered with seaweed and generally not suitable for chilling on. Also it was incredibly hot and humid and the campsite was tucked back and “protected” from the breeze. With nowhere else to go we took out some beers and chilled on the lounger just above the beach, slowly our sense of humor returned and was helped along by a glorious sunset.

In the end we spent 3 nights there as it was quite pleasant chilling on the loungers and using the swimming pool. Swimming in the ocean was only feasible at high tide due to the big shifts in tides, at low tide the water was at least a 20 minute walk away. All in all it was a pleasant few days at Barry’s apart from a small incident Tania had with a coconut tree when making a supply run back to Mr Jones one afternoon.

We were still undecided whether to head into Kenya via the coastal route or to go inland and up to Nairobi and as the roads were in bad condition we made a short 2,5 hour move up the coast to a spot between Pangani and Tanga called Peponi. For the first time in years we had to haul out the recovery straps, so that we could pull a Landcruiser which had chosen to breakdown at the most in opportune spot on the ferry crossing at the Panga river. Peponi was the kind of spot we had hoped for 3 days prior with clean beaches, lovely treed campsite and a funky chill out area, so we stayed for 6 very relaxing days.

Peponi to the small port town of Tanga is only 30km but again it took over an hour due to the sorry state of the dirt road after the recent rains. After a little bit of a wander around we found a small superette to re-stock at and then set off for the East Usambara mountains and a spot called Enau Forest lodge. These mountains are only 45km front the coast and rise to 1000m in altitude so naturally get a lot of rain, especially in the rainy season which we find ourselves in. Halfway up our path was blocked by a truck which had slipped into one of the deep ruts and despite the drivers and various helpers best efforts it was clearly going nowhere. Out come Mr Jones recovery straps for the second time in a matter of days so that we could pull him onto hard ground.

Rescuing the truck from the mud

The road up passes through the Amani Forest reserve and we were expecting to pay park fees of USD30 so were not impressed when this turned out to in fact be USD65 for a short 1hour traverse through the protected part of the forest! Enau Forest Lodge was however very nice even if rather wet, Stuart got caught out and took shelter for 30minutes under a rock overhang when out on a short walk from camp one afternoon. We awoke to torrential and continuous rain on the third day and as we were operating off the solar panels decided it would be best to move, also we weren’t looking forward to the muddy descent and didn’t want to risk doing this later if the rains didn’t let up. The descent while requiring a lot of concentration and the use of low range in fact was a bit of a non-event.

Just a little further inland is the West Usambara mountains and again we were rewarded with a spectacular drive up to the highlands, this time thankfully on tar. The highlands are at 1400m above sea level and 1000m above the Maasai plains below, once again it receives a lot of rain but is less wild and therefore has a very well developed farming area. All in all it is a very pretty area. For our first night we camped at the Irente Cliff Viewpoint hotel, you camp in the rear parking lot but this gives you a spectacular view straight from your backdoor.

Stuart did a mornings guided walk to a different viewpoint and through the local villages and farmlands before we packed up and moved just 2km up the road to Irente Farm which has a lovely campground in the forest and is of course more peaceful than a parking lot. Using the knowledge of the area gained from the guided walk we did some short walks from here too.

We were hoping to get good views of Kilimanjaro on the drive to Moshi but unfortunately it remained cloaked in a layer of cloud all day. The day ended with a bit of a bitter taste in our mouths after a run-in with some scam artists at the Coffee Tree campsite and we ended up spending another night behind a hotel in the parking lot/campsite. It was at least peaceful and in the morning the clouds had cleared and we could get a look at the snow capped peak of Mount Kilimanjaro.

From Moshi we headed westwards, stopping for some shopping in Arusha before heading towards the Ngorongoro & Serengeti reserves. Sadly we wouldn’t be visiting either as the park fees are just exorbitant, a 24 hour trip into the park and descent into the crater would set us back USD580! Our planned stop for the night was Migombani which is perched halfway up the escarpment overlooking the Rift Valley and Lake Manyara National Park. Initially Stuart couldn’t find it on Tracks4Africa so we were using google maps which took us along the roads it has on record and deposited at a very large camp on the top of the escarpment, effectively the closest point on google maps but directly above Migombani. It was in fact quite a nice diversion with good views on the way up the escarpment but not fully appreciated at the time.

Migombani camp is a real gem with the best ablution facilities we have had all trip, a lovely pool overlooking Lake Manyara and for the first time in a number of weeks we got to interact with a number of other overlanders. It was very easy to spend 4 nights here, although we did almost get washed away a few times due to the occasional torrential storm.

Stormy weather makes for fun photo opportunities

An early start got us to the Kenya border just before lunch, all along the way was evidence of the heavy rains we have had the last few days with overflowing rivers, debris washed onto the road and flooded low level crossings.

Tanzania East & Central Gallery

Captain(s) Log: a different view of the ups and downs of daily travel life

Useful links and practical info for Tanzania

Maintenance Log: a list of the damages we incur or work required to keep both ourselves and Mr Jones on the road

Tag: # lifeontheroad

Travel Diary: Slow travel South Africa during COVID

Travel Diary: Phase 2 of Lockdown

Travel Diary: Phase 1 of Lockdown

Travel Diary: South Africa’s West Coast

Travel Diary: Namibia (part 2)

Travel Diary: Namibia (part 1)

Captain(s) Log: February 2020

Travel Diary: Rwanda

Travel Diary: Tanzania

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